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Psoriasis – a scaly problem (LINK)

August 21st 2008 03:19

Psoriasis is a chronic (long-lasting) skin disease of scaling and inflammation that affects about 1 to 5% of the population worldwide. Itching and abnormal flushing are also common features. Primarily affecting adults, psoriasis is caused by an accelerated skin cell turn over. Normally a skin cell matures in 21-28 days during its passage to the surface where dead skin cells slough off revealing new skin cells. With psoriatic skin cells, the journey to the surface is too rapid, revealing immature skin cells that commonly appear as red scaly patches called plaques. Psoriasis can occur on any part of the body, including the scalp and nail bed and can range from mild to severe, affecting up to 70% of the body surface.

Psoriasis has a strong genetic component and not contagious. Those who suffer from this disease often experience physical, social and emotional trauma. The exact cause is unknown; however, researchers believe that heredity, environment, and the immune system may also play a role in psoriasis.

Factors that may affect the degree of severity include allergies, infections, dietary deficiencies or excesses, or nervous tension. Psoriasis is a disorder that most often needs lifelong treatment. And because there are so many different medications for the disorder, it may take some time before the right treatment or combination of treatments will work for an individual.

Until recently, the mainstays of topical therapy have been corticosteroids, tars, anthralins and keratolytics none of which are 100% effective at managing this condition.

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Healing benefits of oils for skin (LINK)

July 28th 2008 07:51

There are quite a number of nourishing carrier oils used in both skin moisturisers and serums and the range of natural products available that using nutritional base oils is ever increasing. Different oils are suitable for different skin types so knowing some basic facts about base oils will help you find the most suitable product for your skin.

Sweet Almond Oil – A common used oil in skin care, it is rich in nutrition including vitamin E, unsaturated fats and essential fatty acids. It has a softening action on the skin and is useful for lubrication in massage because while not a heavy oil, it is not absorbed rapidly.

Olive Oil – A heavier oil, rich in monounsaturates including oleic acid. Extra virgin olive oil come from the first pressing of the olives and is dark green in colour indicating the presence of antioxidant polyphenol. It is suitable for use with dry skin as it helps stabilise the cell membrane increasing the skins ability to hold onto moisture. Olive oil also contains squalene, a hydrating and anti-inflammatory agent, ideal for skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema.

Tamanu Oil – Tamanu oil has powerful healing properties in its unique ability to promote the formation of new skin tissue. Traditionally used by the Polynesians as first aid for the skin and mucous membranes, the oil can assist with scars, burns, skin cracks, cuts, dry skin and wounds. Used cosmetically, Tamanu has healing, mild antibiotic and anti-inflammatory activity 2. For these reasons it is used in both protective and regenerative products aimed at restoring skin appearance.

Evening Primrose Oil – Evening Primrose Oil (EPO) is a valuable source of gamma linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid with potent anti-inflammatory effects. Useful for dry, damaged, sensitive skin EPO helps to maintain the skin’s normal barrier functions. It is also useful topically for eczema and psoriasis.

Rosehip Oil – With up to 80% essential fatty acid content, Rosehip oil is very fine and quite easily absorbed by the skin. Rosehip encourages regeneration and repair of the skin and is renowned for its skin benefits, particularly in the treatment of scars and burns. It is also known for its rehydrating effect as well as improving dry, aged and wrinkled skin.

Jojoba Oil – Actually a fine wax rather than an oil, Jojoba oil is very fine in consistency and readily absorbed by the skin. It is light and non-greasy and for this reason it is ideal in face serums and creams. Jojoba closely resembles the sebum of the skin and so is beneficial for skin and scalp problems such as psoriasis and eczema. With excellent emollient properties it is moisturising, healing and suitable for all skin types.

Coconut Oil – One of the heaviest and most stable oils, coconut is ideal for hair and body application. With moisturising and softening properties it is ideal for dry and rough skin. Coconut oil also has cooling properties and so is useful for after sun care products 1.

Avocado Oil – Strong in colour and odour, avocado oil is not to everyone’s liking for skin care. However, in its unrefined form it is rich in lecithin, vitamin D, E and A which offer useful sun protection and skin nutrition. Avocado oil is beneficial to drier skins.

Sea Buckthorn Oil – Bright orange in colour, Sea Buckthorn oil is rich in beta carotene and second only to Rose Hip in vitamin C content. It is also very rich in essential fatty acids. This rich combination of nutrients mean it is extremely beneficial as a base oil in skin care. With moisturising, anti-inflammatory and restorative properties, it is easily absorbed and useful for all skin types.

Author: Ananda Mahony ND. Ananda is a naturopath and skin specialist. She owns Vitale Natural, an organic skin care store and beauty salon in Paddington, Brisbane. www.vitalenatural.com.au

References:
1. Falconi, D. 1998. Earthly Bodies and Heavenly Hair. Ceres Press , Woodstock, New York.
2. A. C. Dweck. 2007. Tamanu oil. HerbalGram: The Journal of the American Botanical Council. www.herbalgram.org

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Skin absorption of oil ingredients (LINK)

July 24th 2008 07:49

Oil absorption is influenced by the viscosity or thickness of the individual carrier oil with thicker oils tending to be absorbed more slowly through the skin. Generally fine light oils are preferable for use on the face as they absorb quickly, easily penetrating the surface layer of skin without leaving a greasy feel. Heavier oils are suitable for dry facial skin, skin on the body, as bath oils and massage oils. The degree of unsaturation will also impact on oil absorption. In general, the more polyunsaturated fat content of the oil, the better the absorption. For example Rose Hip oil is high in polyunsaturates and has quite low viscosity, making it ideal for use in face serums and creams as it absorbs quickly into the skin.

It is worth noting that cold-pressed oils tend to have a greater degree of unsaturates than heat-extracted oils and for this reason are preferable. The process of cold-pressing involves the nut or seed being placed in an “expeller” which squeezes the oil out. There is some heat created by friction however, it causes little damage to the oil or its constituents. Heat-extraction uses temperatures up to 200 degrees celcius which dramatically increases the yield of oil, making it far more cost effective but at the same time damaging the nutrient content of the oil. Unsaturated fatty acids are easily damaged by high temperatures and so heat-extracted oils will have significantly lower levels. While these oils are commonly used as cooking oils, they should be avoided for use in skin care and aromatherapy as they lack the therapeutic benefits of the cold-pressed versions.

A common misconception when it comes to the use of oils is that applying them to the skin will only worsen oily skin and further create congestion. Heavier oils may sit on the surface of the skin longer before absorption, which is not ideal for already oily skin. However, the lighter, less viscous oils will be absorbed quite quickly and in many cases help to balance skin oiliness rather than contribute to it.

Oils are effectively absorbed into the skin rather than sitting on the surface layer and therefore they are unlikely to cause or worsen congestion. However, many natural skin care products rely on waxes and butters as base ingredients. While enormously beneficial for the skin, they are more likely to sit on the surface and therefore have a greater likelihood of contributing if congestion is already an issue. They are unlikely to cause congestion that wasn’t previously present and the skin response really does depend on individual skin type. The percentage of waxes to butters to oils will vary in different products for different skin types. If you are unsure about what product to use for your skin type, it is worth asking the manufacturer or supplier which of their particular products will be most beneficial for your skin type.

Next time a look at some individual oils and their benefits.

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The magic of oils for skin care (LINK)

July 22nd 2008 07:49

Often underrated, carrier oils are important ingredients in natural skin care. Used in serums and skin moisturisers, carrier oils are named so because they carry ingredients such as essential oils and botanical extracts to the skin. These oils are also known as base oils as they often form the foundation of many natural skin care products. Commonly derived from fatty portion of nuts, seeds or plants, carrier oils are in their own right significantly beneficial for skin nutrition and health.

One of the key differences between conventional skin care and natural or organic skin care is not the “active” ingredients such as green tea or vitamin c, which excluding water may make up to about 5% of any product, rather it lies with the base ingredients. In natural skin care, the base ingredients are often a mix of vegetal oils and butters or waxes in contrast to the synthetic ingredients often found in conventional skin care. The use of base oils has enormous benefit for the skin. Instead of being an inert (non-active) synthetic carrier for the active ingredients, base oils contain nutrients such as vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids that support and nourish the skin. I would go so far as to count base oils as active ingredients in skin care. So, in fact, in natural products up to 95% of any product has a supportive “active” effect on the skin. In comparison, the synthetic base ingredients in conventional skin care by enlarge, lack significant therapeutic benefit

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Dry Skin Solutions (LINK)

July 2nd 2008 00:33

Part 2 - Solutions for Dehydrated Skin

The first thing to do to combat skin dehydration is to remove any factors that directly contribute to moisture loss or skin damage. Avoid long, hot showers, open the windows instead of relying on air-conditioning and stop using products that contain sodium laurel sulphate. Repairing these factors will slow down water loss. Dietary factors will be addressed below but certainly ensure you are getting enough water each day which will help increase water content

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Does your skin feel like a dried out prune? (LINK)

June 30th 2008 00:01

If your skin lacks radiance and feels "tight" it is likely that it is dehydrated. The appearance of fine lines due to loss of elasticity and flexibility are other key signs of dehydrated skin. Moisture evaporates readily through the skin, and if we don't stop this occurrence our skin looses its ability to protect against the outside environment leading to even more moisture loss and in the long term, actual skin damage due to poor cellular integrity.

Wind, sun and pollution as well as internal factors such as diet, nutrient levels and hereditary all play a role in the determining the health of our skin as an effective barrier. The very outer layer of our epidermis (top skin layer) is the real protective layer of the skin. It is made up of flattened dead keratinocytes. These dead skin cells are regularly shed and replaced by deeper skin layers moving up to the surface. The glue that keeps the keratinocytes together is formed by lipids such as fatty acids ceramides and cholesterol. This layer forms a waterproof barrier that reduces "Trans Epidermal Water Loss" or TEWL, ensuring adequate moisture content for the skin. It is this barrier that protects against chemicals, irritants and micro-organisms. A deficiency in these epidermal lipids causes the water retention powers of the epidermis to be significantly reduced. Moisture evaporation and skin dehydration generally follow

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Black Soap - Sensitive Skin Cleanser (LINK)

June 10th 2008 02:11

Part Two - Black Soap from Africa.

Traditionally Anago has been used for cleansing from head to toe and including hair. It is gentle enough to clean new born babies delicate skin and sensitive or damaged skin but it is also used very effectively for acne prone, oily and blemished skin. The mildness of this soap makes it suitable for all skins. Some of the traditional ingredients such as Agow Bark and plantain leaf add healing qualities to the soap. Agow bark has a mild antiseptic effect making it useful for minimising acne-causing bacteria. While Anago does not generally contain “grains” the inclusion of Plantain provides gentle exfoliation and enzymatic qualities clearing the skin of dead cells

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How does Black Soap get you clean? (LINK)

June 7th 2008 01:51

If you are used to conventional, fragranced white soap then African Black Soap is big departure from this standard. Also known as Ose (soap) Dudu (black), or Anago after the Anago language of Nigeria, black soap originates in West Africa. Made for thousands of years, this is a mild soap that is different from any soap you will have used before.

Traditionally Anago is made from an organic compound of pure oils, butters and roasted plants, each village or region with their own recipe, which is handed down from generation to generation and often a secret which helps with local trade and avoids poor imitations. Ingredients such as dried, roasted cocoa pods and plantain peels along with butters such as shea butter or coconut give it the distinctive colour which ranges from light tan to dark chocolate brown depending on the mix of local ingredients used to make it. In its raw form it often contains pockets of plant matter which are compressed into the soap. The coastal regions of Africa tend to produce soap that has a higher percentage of coconut oil, while the interior regions product soap that contains more Shea butter (1

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Slowing down skin aging. (LINK)

May 9th 2008 00:48

Slowing Down the Aging Process

1. Avoid the midday sun. Some sun exposure is essential for the production of Vitamin D. However, prolonged midday sun exposure is most damaging and so should be avoided. If you are out in the midday sun, wear sunscreen when exposure will occur. When choosing a sunscreen, look for one that contains these titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, as they offer protection against UVA. To get the sun exposure you need, spend 20 minutes in the early morning or late afternoon sun. This level is sufficient for vitamin D production

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Why Does Skin Age? (LINK)

April 30th 2008 08:47

Aging is a complex process that affects the skin and every other organ in the body. Different mechanisms are involved leading to numerous ways of combating the aging process. The process of skin aging is a multimillion dollar industry and the push is constantly on to discover the elixir of youthful skin. At this point in time, the search continues…..

Skin aging is often divided into two categories, "chronological aging" which is a consequence of the passage of time and "photoaging" which results from damage caused by ultraviolet light from the sun. It is estimated that up to 80% of skin aging can be attributed to photoaging from sun exposure in non-smokers as it is cumulative and starts from youth (Fisher G, 2002

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August 2008

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July 2008