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Recently I asked some of the inspirational women I know in the skin care/beauty industry what inspires and motivates them and keeps them moving forward. This on-line interview is with Tess Dingle, a naturopath, homeopath and the creator of Third Stone Botanicals (TSB). I have known Tess for 4 years now and admire her product creativity and the dedication she shows for TSB. More from Tess follows:

1. Tell us a bit about your business and what inspired you to get started?
Third Stone Botanicals began 15 years ago as an exercise in self-sufficiency. I had some time on my hands and wanted to learn how to produce most of the consumable products that I used: growing vegetables and making bread, soy milk and tofu, paper, clothing and shoes, cleaning products and of course, skin care, soaps and shampoo. Some of these things turned out more successfully than others! Later on, when life got busier and I needed to buy these products again, I found that no commercial skin care could compare to the products I had developed myself in the kitchen. Add to this the growing awareness of potential harm caused by chemical and synthetic cosmetic ingredients and my motivation to turn TSB into a viable business was born.


2. What makes your range special or different from other ranges available?
Holistic principles are applied to every aspect of TSB, from formulation to ingredient sourcing to manufacturing process to packaging. As a trained health professional, my knowledge of physiology, biochemistry, nutrition, herbal medicine, naturopathy, homeopathy and aromatherapy combine to create holistic products that work in harmony with our bodies rather than placing extra burden on our organs of detoxification and elimination. A big stand-out of TSB is our policy on no synthetic preservatives of any kind and we have achieved this through careful formulation and avoidance of unnecessary “filler” ingredients. Our ingredients are sourced fair trade and certified organic where available and Australian where possible, in consideration of reducing carbon miles and supporting the local economy. Our packaging is also Australian made where available and 100% recyclable. All our products are made by hand at low temperatures in small quality-controlled batches. Every aspect of each product is traceable and we take after-sales service very seriously. All of this adds up to the top quality, highly effective, ethical skin care range that is TSB.


3. What are your 3 must have skin care products?
• A gentle daily cleanser that removes everyday dirt and pollution without damaging the sebum content and upper structure of your skin.
• An organic moisturizer with high vitamin and antioxidant content to protect against UV radiation and preserve the moisture content of your skin. This is something you wear every day and is carried through your skin into your body so it should be at least as important as what you eat.
• An effective non-irritant aluminium-free deodorant, also a product most of us wear every day, so it is really important to find a non-toxic deodorant that works for you.

4. What products do you recommend people new to your range begin with?
It really depends on your individual skin care needs. For those prone to oiliness and breakouts, I can’t stress enough the importance of using a mild cleanser that won’t strip the sebum from your skin, causing the problem to worsen. Rose Geranium Cleansing Gel is
ideal as it is detergent-free, based on organic olive castile and aloe vera. The Green Tea Cleansing Mask teams well with this product to deep cleanse your skin, repair damage from infections and refine pores. For drier and mature skin, a high quality nourishing daily moisturizer that is not too heavy and dragging on your skin is a must. Rosewood Moisture Lotion is a lovely light daytime moisturizer with the vitamin and antioxidant protection of certified organic shea butter. Rosehip Eye Balm would go well with this to prevent dryness and wrinkles forming around the delicate eye area.

5. What is your most popular selling item and why?
Rose Geranium Moisture Balance. This moisturizer is a light gel consistency yet still contains certified organic jojoba, rosehip and evening primrose oils to help maintain the integrity of cell membranes, thus preventing moisture loss without being too oily. As the name suggests, this moisturizer is designed to balance oiliness and dehydration so it is particularly suitable for combination skin which actually is the most common skin type. It is also suitable for the lucky ones with normal skin as it will be neither too oily nor too drying. The light floral scent of lavender, geranium and ylang ylang is popular and a good quality moisturizer is everyone’s priority in skin care I think, so this product is a top seller.

6. Tell us something about yourself you are proud of.
There are not too many mentors in this business and I have had to invent my role every step of the way. As a small business, the outlays involved in outsourcing are considerable and ethical control over those aspects minimal, so I have thus far done pretty much everything myself, right down to designing and printing product labels. This has demanded passion and dedication to my business which I hope will reward me by providing worthwhile employment for others and helping to shift consumerism towards ethical choices.
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Effective healing of a wound is the primary concern following injury or surgery. Wound healing is a complex process and supporting the natural regeneration process of skin cells is important to minimise or eliminate scarring and to help heal and repair damage.

Wound management begins with ensuring lack of post-trauma infection and the use of the most effective products formulated to help heal and repair damaged skin. Topical support for wound healing is one way to ensure an effective healing process and minimise the risk of scarring. Even mild cuts and abrasions will benefit from the topical agents discussed below.

Tea Tree Oil
Tea tree oil has two qualities that make it one of the most effective essential oils for use in wound healing. Firstly it is a powerful antimicrobial and antiseptic, active against all infectious organisms including bacteria, viruses and fungi. Secondly, it is a very effective immune stimulant, increasing the body’s ability to respond when in contact with any of the above micro-organisms. Infection impairs all aspects of wound healing and so infection management is a crucial step in wound healing. Redness, pain, fluid drainage or a bad smell emanating from the wounds are all signs of infection. In serious cases, it is essential to see a doctor, however for minor wounds and even acne, the application of tea tree oil will help effectively manage infection.

In the case of mild infection, liberally apply 100% tea tree oil to the affected area. Further application of tea tree to any bandage may also be applied and then changed every 24 hours.

Calendula
For centuries, calendula has been used to treat many types of skin conditions. A systematic review of the use of calendula in wound treatment concluded that it is still one of the most favourable wound healing agents to date. The topical application of calendula is excellent for all stages of wound healing. Initially it prevents tissue degeneration and slows bleeding allowing the body to start the wound healing process. In addition, calendula has an antimicrobial effect and helps reduce excessive inflammation which if prolonged can delay wound closure and increase pain. Once wound healing is underway, calendula stimulates the regeneration of tissues, increases wound strength and improves wound contraction. Generally calendula is applied to the open wound as a cream.

Antibacterial honey
Of significant note in recent wound management techniques is the use of medical grade antibacterial honey, particularly for chronic and poorly healing wounds such as ulcers. Not all types of honey are effective for wound healing and the differences related to the floral source. Manuka honey from New Zealand along with honey from the Leptospermum tree found in Australia, are considered the most effective medical honeys. Similarly to calendula antibacterial honey is beneficial for wound healing because it has such a broad range of therapeutic effects. It offers wound protection by proving a physical barrier to antibiotic resistant strains of microorganisms thereby preventing cross infection. It promotes clean wounds by removing necrotic (dead) tissue and debris. Finally it promotes wound healing by maintaining a moist wound environment and encouraging tissue granulation. Medical honeys are available in typical honey form which is ideal for oral use or incorporated into creams or lotions and even bandages for easier application to external wounds.


Nutritional & Dietary support for wound healing
Our nutritional status has an impact on wound healing, influencing the rate of healing and the quality of tissue repair. Two vitally important nutrients for wound repair are vitamin C and zinc. Both nutrients support the production of collagen during the repair process and in addition vitamin C supports the network of blood supply to the healing wound. During wound healing additional nutritional support over and above dietary intake may be required.

In a study of patients with chronic ulcers researchers found that those more likely to experience slow healing had low levels of vitamin C and zinc but also vitamin A and carotenes. Vitamin A is found in dairy foods and carotenes can be readily sourced from orange and green vegetables. Adequate protein is also essential for wound healing to provide the amino acids necessary to create new collagen. Good sources of protein include red meat, chicken, fish and legumes. Ensuring your diet is rich in these foods sources will help promote the body’s healing processes.

Consuming foods high in fat may actually slow wound healing times. Researchers found that high fat foods were linked to higher rates of inflammation, delayed cell repair, reduced collagen production and impaired blood synthesis. In light of this research it is wise to choose low fat, trimmed meat and reduce consumption of cakes, pastries, snack foods and fast food during the healing process.

Good wound management combining topical agents with nutritional support will promote the bodies healing processes and minimise the risk of infection and scarring.

References:
Leach M. J. 2008. Calendula officinalis and Wound Healing: A Systematic Review

Adriana P. & Andréa M. A. Costa. 2008. Overweight induced by high-fat diet delays rat cutaneous wound healing. British Journal of Nutrition, Volume 96, Number 6, pp. 1069-1077(9).

Rojas A.I.; Phillips T.J. 1999. Patients with Chronic Leg Ulcers Show Diminished Levels of Vitamins A and E, Carotenes, and Zinc. Dermatologic Surgery, Volume 25, Number 8, pp. 601-604(4).

2001. Phytomedicine, pages 230-235.

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Aging - does diet really play a role?

February 12th 2009 04:31
The simple answer is yes. Environmental factors, nutritional status and dietary intake more than genes can add years to a person's appearance. While topical applications make a difference, a healthy glow is more often a sign of internal health than anything else. There is a growing body of evidence to show that what we eat certainly influences skin aging and not surprisingly, the dietary correlations that relate to reduced skin aging also relate to reduced aging in general. Apart from dietary interventions, research is showing that supplementation with specific nutrients and antioxidants supports the use of topical anti-aging products and that in fact the combination is more effective than either treatment alone. Below is a review of the most significant dietary and nutritional influences on aging.

An Australian study at Monash University looked at the effects of food and nutrient intake on skin wrinkling in areas exposed to the sun. The participants were from Melbourne, Greece and Sweden.

Food intake questionnaires were used to measure diet and microphotography of the skin was used to measure skin wrinkling. The study showed that Swedish had the least skin wrinkling, followed by Greeks and Australians had the most. The types of foods consumed did have an effect on the degree of skin wrinkling with more damage seen in those with a higher intake of meat, dairy and butter. Foods that had a protective effect against skin wrinkling included vegetables, legumes, olive oil, tea, prunes and apples (see full list below). Overall, positive dietary habits trended towards a low-GI diet.

Another study supports the above food associations showing that skin wrinkling in a sun-exposed site in older people of various ethnic backgrounds may be influenced reducing intakes of fats and carbohydrates and increasing antioxidants and beneficial fats, dietary measures which are associated with better skin-aging appearance.

It is worth noting that research linking skin aging and dietary habits should not be taken out of context. Overall dietary trends produce these effects rather than any single food group in isolation. However, the dietary trends in both studies show that high GI and saturated fats seem to have the most significant pro-wrinkling effect. Due to their higher saturated fat content meat, dairy and butter can increase skin inflammation and lead to faster skin aging. In addition a high sugar intake is also associated with greater skin wrinkling. Simple sugar has a pro-inflammatory effect but it also promotes the production of advanced glycosylation end products (AGE). AGEs are closely associated with oxidative stress. A combination of a high antioxidant diet and low sugar reduces inflammation, free radical damage and AGE production in the body. Again the trend shows that the protective foods are low or have no saturated fats and are low GI and rich in phytochemicals which support skin collagen and reduce inflammation.

The Monash study indicated that these foods associated with less wrinkling:

• Mono-unsaturated fat including those from olive oil and olives
• Nuts and legumes
• Vegetables
• Fish (particularly those rich in essential fatty acids)
• Low fat milk and milk products, such as yogurt
• Wholegrain cereals
• Fruit and fruit products (especially prunes, cherries and apples)
• Eggs
• Tea and Water

More wrinkling was associated with diets that included higher intakes of:

• Saturated fat (including butter)
• Trans fats (including margarine)
• Meat (especially fatty processed meats)
• Full fat dairy products
• Refined carbohydrates and sugars such as cakes, pastries and desserts
• Soft drinks and cordials
• Confectionary of any kind
• Many packaged and processed foods contain hidden sugars
• Packaged cereals

Apart from dietary trends, certain nutrients also show promising effects on skin aging. Studies have shown that antioxidant nutrients, specifically vitamins C and E, as well as lipoic acid and flavonoids, exert protective effect against oxidative stress in the skin, in particular photoprotective effects. That is they help protect the skin from the oxidative damage caused by the sun. Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin as a specific subset of carotenoids may also be used as oral sun protectants and contribute to the maintenance of skin health. In fact, taking carotenoids prior to sun exposure will increase the depth and lasting effect of a sun tan (not that extended tanning is advised).

In other research, a daily dosage of soy isoflavones (40mg per day) resulted in the improvement of fine wrinkles and increased skin elasticity after 12 weeks of supplementation in middle-aged women with aged skin. Interestingly, a common arthritis supplement glucosamine also improved the appearance of visible wrinkles and fine lines. Glucosamine is incorporated into glucosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the body. GAGs work to increase epidermal thickness and elasticity of the skin although they have no effect on skin hydration.

Research into oral proanthocyanidins flavanoids from grapeseed extract or pycnogenol has shown they both have a significant protective effect on the collagen matrix of the skin and capillaries. They work by reducing capillary fragility and inhibiting collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin breakdown. Both substances also have an anti-inflammatory effect and can improve peripheral circulation.

Again it is important to note that while supplemental nutrition can support skin health in a number of ways, if concurrent dietary changes aren’t made, the supplements will be combating the constant inflammatory cascade from high GI foods and saturated fats. Removing these dietary items will ensure that inflammation, AGEs and oxidation are all reduced allowing the supplements to work to their optimal level and effect real changes in skin health.

Author: Ananda Mahony ND. Ananda is a naturopath and skin specialist. She owns Vitale Natural, an organic skin care store and beauty salon in Paddington, Brisbane. www.vitalenatural.com.au
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Shine in 2009

December 17th 2008 07:38
Make your year Shine in 2009. My rhyming aside, it is a nice thought as 2008 comes to an end! So with a forward focus I place the emphasis of this post on goal setting for skin care. But I am not posting my blog here this time, rather offering the opportunity to read me and 14 other writers discuss goal setting across a range of topics from finance, to body image, to giving up smoking and of course, skin care.

Your Year to Shine 2009 is a collaborative e-book with the intention of putting a positive focus on the coming year. I hope you enjoy it and if you have any comments, good, bad or indifferent I would love to hear them


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When you open a magazine and look at the “new season” cosmetic colours, do you sometimes wonder if they will suit you at all? I was on a well known cosmetic website recently and I went through a questionnaire to determine what cosmetic colours from the range suited me. For those of you that haven’t met me, I have dark brown hair, blue eyes and pale skin that burns and never tans! So I was very surprised that the result was that “Peaches, oranges and corals” would suit me perfectly. Well once or twice I have been overcome by the need to feel up to date and bought “this seasons” colours in these shades. I can tell you know, they have all been given away or thrown away. In these shades I look like I am sickly and even about to be sick…not a look I was going for. The reason is that I have cool undertones, and peach, orange and coral are warm undertone colours. Naturally they don’t suit me and in fact clash with my skin tone.

Skin tone has a very significant influence on how certain colours look against your skin. When I wear the colours that suit me, I get compliments about my skin. When I don’t, the circles under my eyes stand out despite make up, my skin looks redder and (don’t tell anyone this) but the hair on the top of my lip looks darker whereas usually it is invisible. Yes, just the shade of my blouse can have this effect. So when I do wear the wrong shade of clothing or makeup, I tend to apply more foundation and wear brighter lipstick to compensate for this effect


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Work out your skin type

December 2nd 2008 07:29
Skin type is predominantly a genetic trait. Generally our skin type doesn't change much over our lifetime. Nutritional status, our overall health, external factors such as sun damage and aging can cause changes in the integrity of our skin and our skin type may change as throughout your life. It is important to reassess your skin type so that you use the appropriate products. Using products that don’t suit your basic skin type can actually cause problems.

There are four key skin types: oily, combination, normal and dry. In addition to the basic skin types, there are skin issues which include congestion, sensitivity and dehydration. The characteristics of each skin type and issue are listed below. Please remember however, that every skin type is different and if you feel that you don’t fit into any of these types or have any of these issues, contact our skin specialist, who will assist you with a personalized skin analysis and product prescription


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Skin Super Foods

October 31st 2008 04:52
Step 3 of the Summer Skin Detox – Skin Super Foods

There are some foods that are just so good for the skin that they are called Skin Super Foods. These foods contain nutrients that specifically support skin function and so are of particular importance. You can eat these foods regularly knowing you are helping your skin to stay healthy. These are the top 6 skin super foods


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Following on from my first blog on this topic:

Step 2
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The 7 day skin detox for Summer

October 25th 2008 04:46
Have you been indulging in too many wines, take away or just too much stress? All of these factors can play havoc with your skin. If your complexion suffers when life becomes a little stressful, there are solutions to help you improve dark circles, dry or red blotchy skin, breakouts and puffy eyes.

Making some simple changes to your diet and lifestyle will result in significant changes in skin health. Skin cells start to respond immediately to positive changes and changes in skin tone and colour will start to occur within 3 days. By the end of 7 days your skin will already start to look and feel better. Follow these simple guidelines and expect changes


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Clearing a Clogged Complexion

October 15th 2008 05:11
Treatment of of Blackheads

So, how to get rid of blackheads and congested skin? Well squeezing them out is not the answer. This technique will just lead to further skin irritation and possibly damage and scarring to the surrounding tissue. Rather than removing blackheads by squeezing, the best way to get rid of them is by attacking the source of the problem


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