September 2007 - Natures Therapy

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Natures Therapy - September 2007

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate - Foaming Or Fuming? (LINK)

September 29th 2007 05:17

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) is widely used as a detergent in all types of foaming personal care products from liquid soap and shampoo to toothpaste.

As a detergent, SLS is used in cosmetic agents to break the surface tension of the skin which allows dirt and oil to wash away. All detergents act to dissolve the fats and oils from the skin but also strip it from the top layers of the skin. This can lead to thinning and permeability of the skin. The skin is a barrier to the outside world and by washing away the natural oils produced by the skin SLS reduces the effectiveness of this natural barrier.

The most common reaction seen to SLS containing products is a dry, flaky scalp. What many people think is dandruff can actually be a reaction to the stripping effects of SLS. Those at greatest risk of this effect are babies, those with any skin irritation such as in eczema, dermatitis, acne and psoriasis, those with thinning of the skin such as the elderly or those with dry skin. However, long term use will also affect those with “normal” skin.

A search of PubMed (an internationally recognised database of scientific papers) supported these claims. Numerous trials showed that SLS can cause skin irritation, particularly in those with atopic eczema or dermatitis, as well as increase transdermal water loss. Essentially this means that when applied topically SLS will irritate and dry out the skin.

Other research suggests that SLS can mimic the hormone oestrogen. Too much of this hormone in the body (or substances that mimic its effects) can have a disruptive effect on the reproductive system. There are a range of less harsh detergent agents such as Ammonium Laurel Sulphate that are promoted as SLS alternatives, but they may also be harmful for those at risk and still have a drying effect.

So what are the alternatives? One natural alternative is olive oil based liquid Castile soap. It can be safely used with babies, those with skin conditions, the elderly and those with sensitive or dry skin. Third Stone Botanical Lavender Shampoo is a liquid Castile based product. It is ideal for dry and damaged hair.

Coconut based cleansers are also seen as safer alternatives. Nature’s Symphony shampoo and conditioner are based on coconut based cleansers. Good products for all hair types, feedback from users of these products say the health of their hair and scalp improves with ongoing use.

Given the potential harmful effects of SLS, both known and suspected, it is one synthetic chemical that is best avoided particularly as there are good natural alternatives available.

For more information about natural & organic skin care products contact Ananda Mahony ND at Really Long Link or at info@vitalenatural.com.au

As a naturopath Ananda has been involved in the natural skin care industry for many years. She specialises in the treatment of skin disorders such as acne, eczema, rosacea and dermatitis as well as anti-aging.

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10 Reasons to go (LINK)

September 27th 2007 00:26

The term “natural” is somewhat misleading with regard to use in cosmetics. In Australia and the US manufacturers can add 5% of a natural ingredient to a synthetic product and call it natural. This is generally regarded as “greenwashing” and such products aren’t considered natural at all. So what do you look for to get the REAL benefits from truly natural products?

1. Truly natural products contain no synthetic ingredients such as artificial colours or fragrances. Artificial fragrances are amongst the most irritating ingredient in skin care with the ability to cause or significantly contribute to irritating skin conditions such as eczema, dermatitis, rashes and hives. You will notice the difference in your skin when you avoid such ingredients.

2. Natural products contain no potentially harmful ingredients such as petrochemicals, mineral oils, sodium lauryl sulphate and propolene glycol. According to Skin Deep, an Environmental Working Group in the US, many of the synthetic ingredients used (in the US and Australia) in everyday skin care are potentially toxic to humans.

3. Natural skin care is formulated to support the healthy functioning of our skin from within and without. Humans absorb up to 60% of any substance applied to our skin. It has been calculated that the average women can absorb up to 2kg of different chemicals through their skin each year. By using natural products you ensure that what you are absorbing is benefiting your skin and body, promoting radiance and health.

4. Our bodies have to break down, detoxify and excrete any substance we put on them. This puts an extra burden of toxicity on the body and is of particular concern for young babies and children whose organs of elimination are not fully developed. Reduce your toxic burden by using whole, unrefined natural products.

5. Natural skin & body care products contain nutrients, including naturally occurring antioxidants, amino acids, botanical extracts, pure essential oils and essential fatty acids in their holistic form which is more compatible with our skin and bodies. This includes nutrients such as grape seed (rich in phytochemicals that support the skin), rose hip oil (rich in vitamin C), Carrot oil (rich in vitamin A), pumpkin seed oil (rich in zinc), olive oil (rich in squalene) to name but a few. These ingredients promote healthy skin by nourishing from the outside in.

6. Natural cosmetics are more active. Excluding water, often contain up to 95% active ingredients rather than 5% active ingredients in a 95% inert (non-active) base as in many of everyday personal care products and cosmetics. You will notice a difference when you use natural products.

7. Wholly natural products are not tested on animals.

8. Many of the suppliers of natural skin care are local and cottage industries. Buying these products supports sustainable manufacturing processes, the ability to maintain quality control by hand making small quantities in order to provide fresh product, small business enterprise and local communities.

9. Natural products are environmentally friendly. Recent studies have shown that the chemicals and toxins found in most skin care products have a harmful effect on the environment as well as they take longer to break down than whole, unrefined ingredients.

10. Value for money. Natural products are often cheaper than synthetic products as they don’t have to compete in the hyped brand focused market. You are also paying for active rather than inert ingredients. When considering the benefits available form natural skin care the value of natural products outweighs anything else on the market.

For more information about natural and organic skin care products contact Ananda at Really Long Link or at info@vitalenatural.com.au

Ananda Mahony ND has been involved in the natural skin care industry for many years. This article outlines the benefits of natural skin care over their synthetic counterparts. Please include this credit if you use this article.

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Blushing beauty or Rosacea sufferer? (LINK)

September 26th 2007 05:15

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that often occurs between the ages of 30 and 50. It is characterised by redness and flushing across the nose and cheeks but can also affect the neck, chest, eyes and ears. Rosacea is more prevalent in pale skinned people of European descent, and so is also known as the “Celtic Curse”. This condition occurs more frequently in women however men are more likely to experience severe manifestations such as deformities of the nose. Currently there are no completely effective therapeutic treatments however, the condition is manageable with diet and lifestyle and there are a number of topical treatments emerging that are proving to be beneficial.

If not managed, rosacea tends to get worse over time however it does go through periods of acute flare up and then lessening symptoms. The condition starts out as mild to moderate flushing and redness, often set off by exercise, changes in temperature and cleansing. It then progresses to semi-permanent erythema (redness) and dilation of blood vessels on the face. Red bumps and pustules as well as gritty eyes and burning sensations may also manifest.

Genetic and environmental factors are thought to contribute to the development of rosacea however there is no clear cut relationship. The current theory is that chronic damage to the blood vessels on the face leads to swelling and ongoing dilation which give the flushed appearance. Localised immune responses and inflammation then activate pustules. Rosacea sufferers may also develop over-grown sebaceous glands which contribute to cyst formation. Sun damage is almost certainly plays a contributing role.

While environmental factors are most likely continue the progression of rosacea, there are a number of things that will trigger an acute attack. Commonly these include:

* Exposure to sunlight
* Hot foods and drinks particularly caffeine containing beverages
* Spicy foods and those high in histamine
* Alcohol
* Extremes in temperature from hot showers, weather, heating, airconditioning and strenuous exercise
* Stress and blushing from embarrassment
* Corticosteroids
* Drugs that dilate the blood vessels including some blood pressure medications

A survey conducted by the National Rosacea Society indicated that skin care products that contain alcohol and synthetic fragrance as well as some essential oils such as eucalyptus and peppermint are more likely to aggravate rosacea (1). Other potential topical irritants include acne and wrinkle treatments such as microdermabrasion, benzoyl peroxide and chemical peels.

The key to the management of rosacea is to minimise exposure to anything that causes a flare up. A good way to establish which factors trigger a skin reaction is to keep a rosacea diary and note down any direct associations noticed. Avoiding triggers is an important way to help slow the onset of the condition but is unlikely to cause remission except in mild cases.

Other suggestions for avoiding flare ups include wearing sunscreen with a SPF of at least 15 will help to protect the skin from sun damage. Use sunscreens based on zinc oxide rather than chemical filters. A hat will also help to minimise sun exposure. Avoid temperature extremes such as going from a heated room out into the cold air or from air-conditioning into hot weather. Hot showers and overheating may also trigger a skin reaction. Also avoid any cosmetic or skin care products with alcohol or any that cause redness, stinging sensations or irritation.

Due to the enlarged sebaceous glands with rosacea there is a greater tendency for congestion. From a skin care perspective, use light or gel based moisturisers as heavier creams may have a comedogenic effect and clog pores. Many people are tempted with oily or congested skin to use strong foaming cleansers which often contain sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). Rosacea is already associated with damage to the endothelium and so foaming agents containing SLS should generally be avoided as they may increase irritation and further reduce skin integrity. Cleansers that contain Aloe vera or liquid castile soap are more gentle options.

Application of liquid foundation may also contribute to skin reactions. Cosmetically, mineral based make up such as those containing zinc or titanium dioxide are ideal as they cover redness without congesting pores. However, it is important to avoid any mineral make up that contains talc as again this will promote congestion.

Key areas to target with topical treatment include reducing inflammatory and immune responses and increasing blood vessel integrity. One herbal ingredient that is gaining popularity as an effective topical treatment for rosacea is Centella asiatica or Gotu kola. Therapeutically, Centella has been used as a tonic and connective tissue strengthening herb. Recent studies have shown Centella asiatica may have a positive effect on the circulatory system and may improve blood flow throughout the body by strengthening the veins and capillaries. This effect in particular is good for those that suffer from broken surface capillaries on their face and also for rosacea sufferers. By improving the integrity of the facial capillaries Centella works to reduce the “flushing effect”. Other un-researched ingredients that have been used effectively with rosacea include comfrey to strengthen skin tissues, marine nutrients (kelp) to reduce inflammation and calendula for its healing qualities.

From a dietary perspective a high fat, high sugar (processed foods) diet will contribute to inflammation. Avoiding foods high in saturated and trans fats and simple sugars will help to reduce this effect which will also minimise localised skin inflammation. Foods that commonly contain trans or saturated fats include milk, milk products, margarine, shortening and other synthetically hydrogenated oils as well as fried foods. It is also advisable to avoid the foods that are likely to directly cause flushing such as alcohol, coffee, hot beverages and spicy foods. Avoiding simple sugars and highly processed foods also helps avoid the over-secretion of insulin, which occurs in response to raised blood sugar levels and is linked with systemic inflammation.

There is some research to suggest that low gastric acid levels in people with rosacea may contribute to the development or progression of the condition. Some rosacea patients have responded well to hydrochloric acid supplementation. Low stomach acid is also more likely to be associated with Helicobactor pylori (H. pylori). Supporting this theory is the finding that levels of H. pylori have been found to be higher in rosacea sufferers. A breath test can be used to test for H. pylori to establish if it is a contributing factor.

Essential fatty acids are important in the treatment and management of rosacea. They work to reduce skin inflammation as well as improving skin moisture and appearance. Good sources of essential fatty acids include deep sea fish such as tuna, salmon and mackle as well as nuts and seeds. Flax oil and fish oil capsules are suitable alternatives if dietary intake is insufficient. Zinc is also important for skin repair and inflammation control. Good dietary sources of zinc include lean beef, whole grains, sunflower and pumpkin seeds.

Rosacea is a condition that can be managed with time and care. While there are no miracle cures with this condition, avoidance of triggers, gentle skin care and a whole food diet will help reduce acute attacks as well as the progression of rosacea. P.S. miracles do happen!

Ananda Mahony ND is a naturopath and holistic skin specialist. Her practice focuses on the treatment of skin conditions and Food As Medicine. Ananda also owns Vitale Natural Skin & Body Care, a natural & organic skin care store in Paddington. www.vitalenatural.com.au

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Acne - a review of dietary & other contributing factors (LINK)

September 22nd 2007 06:14

This article outlines the common causes and triggers of acne, looking at some of the conventional treatments and their side effects as well as how diet can play a role in the development and healing of this skin condition.

Acne is a skin disorder common to many teenagers living in the Western World and in the last 20 years, an increasing number of adults. An inflammatory disease of the skin, the most common symptoms of acne include pimples, comedones, whiteheads blackheads, pustules, cysts and scars

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