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Natures Therapy - June 2008

If your skin lacks radiance and feels "tight" it is likely that it is dehydrated. The appearance of fine lines due to loss of elasticity and flexibility are other key signs of dehydrated skin. Moisture evaporates readily through the skin, and if we don't stop this occurrence our skin looses its ability to protect against the outside environment leading to even more moisture loss and in the long term, actual skin damage due to poor cellular integrity.

Wind, sun and pollution as well as internal factors such as diet, nutrient levels and hereditary all play a role in the determining the health of our skin as an effective barrier. The very outer layer of our epidermis (top skin layer) is the real protective layer of the skin. It is made up of flattened dead keratinocytes. These dead skin cells are regularly shed and replaced by deeper skin layers moving up to the surface. The glue that keeps the keratinocytes together is formed by lipids such as fatty acids ceramides and cholesterol. This layer forms a waterproof barrier that reduces "Trans Epidermal Water Loss" or TEWL, ensuring adequate moisture content for the skin. It is this barrier that protects against chemicals, irritants and micro-organisms. A deficiency in these epidermal lipids causes the water retention powers of the epidermis to be significantly reduced. Moisture evaporation and skin dehydration generally follow.


One section of the skin's waterproof moisture barrier is slightly acidic and as such is know as the acid mantle. The acidity of this layer is due to secretions from the sebaceous and sweat glands and its function is once again protection but in particular stopping the growth of bacteria and fungi. It also assists with maintaining the "glue" that keeps the outer layer skin cells bound together. If acid pH of the skin is disrupted it becomes more alkaline and starts to lose its protective properties.


It is the balance of sebum (skin oil) and perspiration that keeps the skin healthy. Skin dehydration occurs when the water and oils that form part of the protective layer are out of balance. This can happen for a number of reasons:

1. Evaporation of moisture through the skin. Factors that promote moisture evaporation include dry air (ie lack of humidity or airconditioning), wind, prolonged water exposure (swimming in pools or long showers).

2. Damage to the waterproof barrier or disruption of the acid mantle leaving the skin open to issues such as dehydration, roughness, infection, redness and irritation. Synthetic foaming agents such as sodium laurel sulphate are a significant cause of acid mantle disruption.

3. Low water and healthy fat intake - adequate water intake is required to maintain cellular fluid. Essential fatty acids from good fats help maintain the fatty membrane surrounding the cell, holding in moisture and nutrition.

4. Ageing. As we age, there is a reduction in the water holding capacity of the skin as well as the production of natural oils.

In part twof ocuses on solutions for dehydrated skin.

Ananda Mahony ND is a naturopath and holistic skin specialist. Her practice focuses on the treatment of skin conditions. Ananda also owns Vitale Natural Skin & Body Care, a natural & organic skin care store in Paddington. Really Long Link




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Part Two - Black Soap from Africa.

Traditionally Anago has been used for cleansing from head to toe and including hair. It is gentle enough to clean new born babies delicate skin and sensitive or damaged skin but it is also used very effectively for acne prone, oily and blemished skin. The mildness of this soap makes it suitable for all skins. Some of the traditional ingredients such as Agow Bark and plantain leaf add healing qualities to the soap. Agow bark has a mild antiseptic effect making it useful for minimising acne-causing bacteria. While Anago does not generally contain “grains” the inclusion of Plantain provides gentle exfoliation and enzymatic qualities clearing the skin of dead cells.

Often compressed into blocks, genuine black soap can be quite soft or crumbly so doesn’t readily form a traditional soap bar shape. For this reason perhaps, it hasn’t become widely commercially available. Unfortunately there are many imitations available on the global market, which are poor substitutes for the real product. Most imitation products don’t use traditional ingredients and rely on charcoal or black dye as colouring agents and cheap vegetable or animal oils as shea or coco butter substitutes. This results in a black soap look-alike that lacks the essential qualities of the traditional version.

Another significant issue with imitation black soap is that it isn’t Fair Trade. True black soap is sourced exclusively from Fair Trade organisations such as woman's co-operative of Ghana in West Africa. Supporting Fair Trade means that the women making the soap are paid fair wages, have pension plans, sick leave and good working conditions. One way of determining if you are buying true black soap is that it is only made in western Africa and not in the US, Europe and Asia. If you are unsure, ask if the product is Fair Trade and check the ingredient listing.

Author: Ananda Mahony ND. Ananda is a naturopath and skin specialist. She owns Vitale Natural, an organic skin care store and beauty salon in Paddington, Brisbane. www.vitalenatural.com.au
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If you are used to conventional, fragranced white soap then African Black Soap is big departure from this standard. Also known as Ose (soap) Dudu (black), or Anago after the Anago language of Nigeria, black soap originates in West Africa. Made for thousands of years, this is a mild soap that is different from any soap you will have used before.

Traditionally Anago is made from an organic compound of pure oils, butters and roasted plants, each village or region with their own recipe, which is handed down from generation to generation and often a secret which helps with local trade and avoids poor imitations. Ingredients such as dried, roasted cocoa pods and plantain peels along with butters such as shea butter or coconut give it the distinctive colour which ranges from light tan to dark chocolate brown depending on the mix of local ingredients used to make it. In its raw form it often contains pockets of plant matter which are compressed into the soap. The coastal regions of Africa tend to produce soap that has a higher percentage of coconut oil, while the interior regions product soap that contains more Shea butter (1).

Anago is unlike anything available on the commercial market from conventional syndet (synthetic) bars to naturally made soaps.It has healing and emollient properties that make it more than just an effective cleansing agent. Free of animal fats and synthetic ingredients such as colours and fragrances, it is very gentle on the skin making it suitable for all skin types. Anago has a milder pH than conventional soaps because it is caustic soda free. The rich butter and oil ingredients such as shea butter ensure a high glycerine content which creates a creamy lather and afterwards a soft skin feel. True black soap is unscented and just has a mild “clean” smell.

Part 2 of this article looks at the benefits of Black Soap.

Author: Ananda Mahony ND. Ananda is a naturopath and skin specialist. She owns Vitale Natural, an organic skin care store and beauty salon in Paddington, Brisbane. www.vitalenatural.com.au
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