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Clearing a Clogged Complexion

October 15th 2008 05:11
Treatment of of Blackheads

So, how to get rid of blackheads and congested skin? Well squeezing them out is not the answer. This technique will just lead to further skin irritation and possibly damage and scarring to the surrounding tissue. Rather than removing blackheads by squeezing, the best way to get rid of them is by attacking the source of the problem.

1. A good cleansing routine: Cleansing the skin of daily dirt, grime and pollution is essential. A good cleansing routine is a very effective way to remove blackheads, as it will help wash away excess oil and dead skin particles. Use a gentle cleanser as harsh and overly-drying cleansers will only make the problem worse by causing an increase in sebum production. If your skin feels squeaky clean, dry and tight after washing, you are doing more harm than good and need to use a more gentle cleanser. Avoid products with Sodium laurel sulphate as this ingredient tends to disrupt the acid mantle again causing increased sebum production.


2. Regular gentle exfoliation: one way to minimise congestion and clogged pores is to ensure the top layer skin remains clear by regularly removing the dead skin cells. There are a number of very effective products you can use to remove dead skin cells.
Regular use of facial exfoliants or scrubs will help clear dead skin cells that block pores. Removing the top layer of dead cells will also allow your moisturiser or serum work more effectively as it comes into contact with live skin cells rather than dead ones.

There are a couple of things to look for in a good exfoliant. The most obvious, although it is surprising how many people ignore this, is that a body scrub is too harsh to be used as a facial scrub. Look for a very fine, soft exfoliant as your facial skin is soft and delicate. A harsh scrub may actually scour the surface of your skin much like a scrubbing brush and this can actually damage skin cells. If your skin is excessively red or inflamed after use they are far too strong. Gentle exfoliants will slough off cells without a harsh scrubbing effect and are suitable to be used 2-3 times a week.


3. Fruit Enzyme Peels: enzyme peels are another way of clearing dead skin cells. They work as a result of their ability to break the bonds between dead skin cells that form at the surface of the skin. Skin normally has a dead layer of cells at its surface (the corneocyte layer), and fruit enzymes can speed up the normal process of skin cell regeneration and sloughing. This results in increased flexibility of the skin as well as decreased formation of large dry skin flakes at the surface of the skin.

Pumpkin, pineapple and pawpaw provide natural, gentle enzyme proteases that loosen the glue between dead skin cells, slough away impurities, dead skin cells and unplug the pores while delivering nutrition to the skin. This leaves the skin cleansed and silky smooth and reduces the likelihood of blackheads. Fruit enzyme ‘peels’ only need to be used once or twice a week for good effect.

4. Light Moisturisers: moisturisers that use waxes, butters and petrochemical oils will be more likely to contribute to congestion in skin that is prone to blackheads. Please note that waxes and butters are perfectly suitable and definitely beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin but for those with congested skin, choose lotions rather than rich creams. If you have combination skin and suffer from congestion as well as dry skin, use oil based serums or hyaluronic acid to increase moisture content in the skin without contributing to further blockage.

5. Salicylic acid and glycolic acid in high concentrations are common recommendations for skin congestion and while they might be effective in the short term they can cause significant problems and can be counter-productive to softening and dissolving blackheads as they can dehydrate dry, normal and combination skin. In addition, those with a history of use of high concentration glycolic acid can suffer redness and irritation at a later date when exposed to even mildly acidic ingredients such as ascorbic acid. If you choose to use such products, firstly use them in consultation with a skin specialist, use low concentrations, use them short term only and watch for signs of skin dehydration.

6. Make Up: Mineral make up is an ideal alternative for those with congested skin. Rather than sinking into or filling pores, the particles of pigment sit on the surface of the skin allowing the skin to breathe properly. This helps minimise congestion and eventually, allows the pores to shrink.

7. Dietary & Lifestyle tips: Plenty of water will help flush toxins out of your system and regular and regular exercise will keep your lymphatic system flowing. Together both these factors will help reduce the level of toxins being eliminated via the skin.

Research conducted at RMIT University, Melbourne, has shown that a low glycemic index (GI), moderate protein diet improved symptoms of acne including the number of facial lesions. The diet consisted of 25% of energy from protein and 45% of energy from low GI carbohydrates such as fruit and vegetables, grains and pulses. While this research was conducted on patients with acne, there are strong correlations between high GI diets and skin congestion as well. Generally a high GI diet is associated with a greater degree of systemic body toxicity and inflammation and those prone to skin conditions are likely to eliminate toxins through the skin more readily.

A diet high in vegetables, fruit, good fats, lean protein, nuts & seeds is ideal for the skin as it contains lots of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants that support skin health.
Following the steps above will not only help you minimise congestion but will also encourage clear, vibrant skin in general.

Ananda Mahony ND is a naturopath and skin specialist. Ananda owns a skin care store Vitale Natural. www.vitalenatural.com.au

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Unclog your complexion

October 13th 2008 05:08
Blocked pores, dull skin, uneven skin, blackheads and whiteheads...all signs of congested skin and often affecting not just teenagers, but adults too. Also knows as open comedomes, blackheads are literally tiny plugs in the opening of a follicle or pore on the skin. The pore plug is a combination of oils, sebum and dead skin cells. Open to the skin’s surface, the plug becomes darkened as it is exposed to oxygen. Whiteheads are closed at the skin’s surface, blocked by cellular debris but not exposed to oxygen so remain light in colour.

Blackheads, whiteheads and blocked pores are usually caused by a combination of factors. Excess skin oil, sebum and toxins that are expelled through the skin are often an underlying issue. In addition dead skin cells, pollution, occlusive make up and dirt also play a role by filling up pores already opened by sebum and oil production. Each factor will contribute to congestion in a different but significant way:

Skin Oil & Sebum: excess oil and sebum production by the skin will contribute to clogging pores and encourage the growth of skin bacteria. When combined with external factors such as dirt, blackheads easily form.

Toxic Congestion: blood and lymph supply the skin with nutrition. However, if the toxins that are produced in our bodies everyday are not eliminated properly, they are eliminated via the skin and can contribute to congestion as well as other issues such as acne and skin irritation.

Dead Skin Cells: Each 3 or 4 weeks the skin replenishes the skin cells. This natural process creates a layer of dead skin cells over the surface of the skin. If not removed, the dead skin cells create dull looking skin. The other thing that may happen is that the dead cells will plug the pores on your face and create congestion and blackheads. When combined with excessive sebum production, this can lead to the formation of white-heads and black heads.

Skin Care & Make Up: The key culprits in skin congestion are products that contain petrochemical based oils as they have an occulusive effect, stopping the skin from breathing and blocking pores. Talc, which is common in make up and finishing powder, also has this effect. Waxes and butters may also be an issue with skin prone to congestion. Make up is usually worn on a daily basis so it is essential to choose a make up that suits your skin type and doesn’t contribute to further congestion.

Pollution & Dirt: Building up on the surface of skin over the day, pollution is a factor in the formation of blackheads and blocked pores. The more polluted the area in which you live, the more skin pollution you are likely to experience. Effective skin cleansing is vital to clean the skin of daily dirt and grime...and a splash of water at the end of the day just doesn’t cut it. Dirt that is found on our face and other parts of the body can be a breeding ground for bacteria and combined with oily skin can make things even worse. Where does the dirt come from? Dirty hands are a key culprit and those already conscious of their skin tend to pick and rub their skin more than others, just making the problem worse.

In the next blog, I will look at how to manage clogged and congested skin effectively.


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The chemical cocktail

September 29th 2008 02:15
Glowing skin, fewer wrinkles, no blemishes, fuller lips, and of course the benefits that come automatically from all this such as a hot guy at your side and the envying glances of every woman in the room. And amazingly, all easily achievable with the latest miracle cream! It’s easy to believe what the skincare giants promise, but do you know what you are actually slathering onto your skin?

Remember the scene in Goldfinger when the Bond girl is covered in gold paint and dies because her skin suffocates? While it is doubtful whether anyone would regularly practise anything so obviously wacky (not to mention expensive!) the outcome itself is not as crazy as it sounds. We tend to forget that the skin is the largest organ of the body,and every day we apply a chemical cocktail of substances in ignorant bliss, unaware that up to 60% of anything applied topically can be absorbed into our bodies. As the average woman uses up to 14 different skincare and cosmetic products each day, this calculates to a massive two kilograms of different chemicals each year seeping into our systems. So why does this matter? With many of the synthetic ingredients used in everyday skin care being potentially toxic to humans, you may like to reconsider some of the following:

Goldfinger
Goldfinger - Toxic Paint


Shirley Eaton stars as Jill Masterson in Goldfinger - 1964
Photo: The Kobal Collection, WireImage.com

Petrochemical derived ingredients (such as mineral oil) are extensively used in skin care as they help prevent water loss. While this may seem beneficial, they actually prevent the skin from breathing by forming an occlusive barrier, disrupting the skins normal functioning.

Parabens (a common preservative) have demonstrated oestrogen mimicking activity which disrupts the body’s normal hormonal balance. In addition, parabens have also been shown to cause abnormalities in cell reproduction, an issue also associated with cancerous cells.

Sodium Laurel Sulphate (SLS) (a foaming agent) used in toothpaste, shampoo and foaming cleansers. Numerous trials showed that SLS can increase transdermal water loss causing the skin to become dehydrated and cause skin irritation.

Phthalates are a group of synthetic chemicals that are used in the production of various substances such as plastics, beauty products and artificial fragrances. Phthalates can interfere with reproductive tissues in both men and women leading to issues such as infertility and birth defects. Specifically it targets the testes in men and breast tissue in women.

Parfum and synthetic fragrances are the most common cause of adverse skin reactions.
Propylene glycol is implicated in contact dermatitis, kidney damage and liver abnormalities. It also damages cell membranes causing rashes, dry skin and surface damage.

Finding safe and natural products can often be confusing - the term “natural” is somewhat misleading with regard to use in cosmetics. In Australia manufacturers can add 5% of a natural ingredient to a synthetic product and call it natural.

Ultimately, what you use on your skin is an individual choice, and issues such as skincare goals, sensitivities or allergies, and personal values need to be taken into consideration. If you do choose to avoid ingredients such as those above the best way to do so is by reading product labels and making an informed decision. But if reading packages is not your style, it’s usually safe to say that organic ingredients are best - think Bond girl, but in the buff rather than bronzed.
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Green (and Pink) is the new Black!

September 15th 2008 07:43
THE NEW BLACK

Walk down the personal care isle of the supermarket isles and you might see 3 or 4 hair products with “organic” or “natural” ingredients or branded with an organic sounding name. Take a closer look at the label and you will soon realize that underneath the feel good name these products are still made of synthetic cleansers, include artificial fragrances and are chock full of preservatives. True to label claim there may be ˝ a percent of an organic essential oil or herbal extract but is this what we really expect as consumers when we read “organic” or “natural” on the label of a product? Practices such as these are known as greenwashing. To be more specific, when a company or organization misleads consumers by claiming have green practices or sell green products without actually having any or limited basis for this claim, this is known as greenwashing


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Are you taking the best multi for you? (LINK)

August 30th 2008 02:38
Apart from gender & age group (see Which Mulit is right for you?), there are a number of other factors which may influence your choice of multi vitamin/mineral:

1. Dosage – most multis these days are “one-a-day” however some may require a second tablet to meet a higher daily intake of nutrients. While one tablet a day is convenient, keep in mind that a multi generally offers lower doses of essential nutrients and is usually not enough to counteract a specific nutrient deficiency. A specific nutrient deficiency is considered a serious condition. Higher doses of nutrients may be required and in such cases the supervision of a health care provider is essential


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In an ideal world, we would get all the nutrition we need from the food we eat however research supports what many holistic health professionals have long said, in this day and age we simply aren’t getting the nutrients we need from our diet. Reasons for this lack are numerous from poor nutrient soil quality and intensive farming techniques to western food diets and modern day stressors placing a greater demand on our bodies. The lack of nutrient intake has become so significant that The Journal of American Medical Association (JAMA) now recommends a daily multivitamin as a way of supporting our nutritional needs and promoting better health.

A daily multi may not answer to all of today’s ills but it is seen as a form of “insurance” against less than optimal nutrient intake (Fletcher & Fairfield, 2002). Taking a daily multi may also promote increased energy and reduced stress levels in the short term. In the long term, it may offer some benefits for increased cardiovascular health and improved eye and brain health as well as a decreased risk of osteoporosis


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12 tips for great skin (LINK)

August 25th 2008 03:22
Good skin can be natural but it can also take some maintenance. Here are 12 tips that
1. Stay Hydrated. Our skin reflects our state of hydration. Dehydrated skin is sign of total body dehydration. Start the day with half a lemon squeezed into 300mls of water. The lemon will stimulate the cells of the body to absorb the water increasing hydration levels.

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Part Two - Black Soap from Africa.

Traditionally Anago has been used for cleansing from head to toe and including hair. It is gentle enough to clean new born babies delicate skin and sensitive or damaged skin but it is also used very effectively for acne prone, oily and blemished skin. The mildness of this soap makes it suitable for all skins. Some of the traditional ingredients such as Agow Bark and plantain leaf add healing qualities to the soap. Agow bark has a mild antiseptic effect making it useful for minimising acne-causing bacteria. While Anago does not generally contain “grains” the inclusion of Plantain provides gentle exfoliation and enzymatic qualities clearing the skin of dead cells


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If you are used to conventional, fragranced white soap then African Black Soap is big departure from this standard. Also known as Ose (soap) Dudu (black), or Anago after the Anago language of Nigeria, black soap originates in West Africa. Made for thousands of years, this is a mild soap that is different from any soap you will have used before.

Traditionally Anago is made from an organic compound of pure oils, butters and roasted plants, each village or region with their own recipe, which is handed down from generation to generation and often a secret which helps with local trade and avoids poor imitations. Ingredients such as dried, roasted cocoa pods and plantain peels along with butters such as shea butter or coconut give it the distinctive colour which ranges from light tan to dark chocolate brown depending on the mix of local ingredients used to make it. In its raw form it often contains pockets of plant matter which are compressed into the soap. The coastal regions of Africa tend to produce soap that has a higher percentage of coconut oil, while the interior regions product soap that contains more Shea butter (1


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Heal Dehydrated Skin - Part 3 (LINK)

March 6th 2008 08:31
The final installment of "Heal Dehydrated Skin"........Most cosmetic products on the market don’t actually help the skin repair damage to the barrier or acid mantle. They act as emollients, reducing water loss from the skin by covering it with a protective layer. Effectively they keep water in the skin. Common emollient ingredients include butters, waxes and oils as well as products such as petroleum and lanolin. While emollients are helping to reduce the problem, they aren’t actually remedying the underlying cause. The other issue with some emollient ingredients is that they may actually cause more problems.

Petroleum products such as mineral oil sit on the surface of the skin, stopping the skin from breathing and have the potential to block pores. By contrast natural waxes and oils allow the skin to breath. Some of the heavier waxes or butters may still block pores however natural carrier and essential oils are unlikely to have this effect


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Heal Dehydrated Skin - Part 2 (LINK)

March 5th 2008 08:30
Following on from Part 1......Skin dehydration occurs when the water and oils that form part of the protective layer are out of balance. This can happen for a number of reasons:

1. Evaporation of moisture through the skin. Factors that promote moisture evaporation include dry air (ie lack of humidity or airconditioning), wind, prolonged water exposure (swimming in pools or long showers


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Heal Dehydrated Skin (LINK)

March 2nd 2008 08:19
If your skin lacks radiance and feels "tight" it is likely that it is dehydrated. The appearance of fine lines due to loss of elasticity and flexibility are other key signs of dehydrated skin. Moisture evaporates readily through the skin, and if we don't stop this occurrence our skin looses its ability to protect against the outside environment leading to even more moisture loss and in the long term, actual skin damage due to poor cellular integrity.

Wind, sun and pollution as well as internal factors such as diet, nutrient levels and genes all play a role in the determining the health of our skin as an effective barrier. The very outer layer of our epidermis (top skin layer) is the real protective layer of the skin. It is made up of flattened dead keratinocytes. These dead skin cells are regularly shed and replaced by deeper skin layers moving up to the surface. The glue that keeps the keratinocytes together is formed by lipids such as fatty acids ceramides and cholesterol. This layer forms a waterproof barrier that reduces "Trans Epidermal Water Loss" or TEWL, ensuring adequate moisture content for the skin. It is this barrier that protects against chemicals, irritants and micro-organisms. A deficiency in these epidermal lipids causes the water retention powers of the epidermis to be significantly reduced. Moisture evaporation and skin dehydration generally follow


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Create Skin Care Goals (LINK)

March 1st 2008 08:16
Goal setting is an interesting idea in relation to skin care. I mean how does one set skin care goals? Well to answer this question I ask myself these three questions:

1. how do I want my skin to look now
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The Sausage Tree Kigelia africana grows throughout Africa and derives its name from the unusual 'sausage' shaped fruit that hang from its long stalks. They often grow to over a meter in length and can weigh up to 10kg. The hard, grey green fruit has a thin skin covering a firm, fibrous fruit pulp.

The tree grows prolifically throughout Southern Africa and is harvested from the wild, on a sustainable basis. The tree's fruit, bark, roots and leaves are all used for their curative properties. The extract used is composed of solvent extracts from the Kigelia africana fruit pulp


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