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Recently I asked some of the inspirational women I know in the skin care/beauty industry what inspires and motivates them and keeps them moving forward. This on-line interview is with Tess Dingle, a naturopath, homeopath and the creator of Third Stone Botanicals (TSB). I have known Tess for 4 years now and admire her product creativity and the dedication she shows for TSB. More from Tess follows:

1. Tell us a bit about your business and what inspired you to get started?
Third Stone Botanicals began 15 years ago as an exercise in self-sufficiency. I had some time on my hands and wanted to learn how to produce most of the consumable products that I used: growing vegetables and making bread, soy milk and tofu, paper, clothing and shoes, cleaning products and of course, skin care, soaps and shampoo. Some of these things turned out more successfully than others! Later on, when life got busier and I needed to buy these products again, I found that no commercial skin care could compare to the products I had developed myself in the kitchen. Add to this the growing awareness of potential harm caused by chemical and synthetic cosmetic ingredients and my motivation to turn TSB into a viable business was born.


2. What makes your range special or different from other ranges available?
Holistic principles are applied to every aspect of TSB, from formulation to ingredient sourcing to manufacturing process to packaging. As a trained health professional, my knowledge of physiology, biochemistry, nutrition, herbal medicine, naturopathy, homeopathy and aromatherapy combine to create holistic products that work in harmony with our bodies rather than placing extra burden on our organs of detoxification and elimination. A big stand-out of TSB is our policy on no synthetic preservatives of any kind and we have achieved this through careful formulation and avoidance of unnecessary “filler” ingredients. Our ingredients are sourced fair trade and certified organic where available and Australian where possible, in consideration of reducing carbon miles and supporting the local economy. Our packaging is also Australian made where available and 100% recyclable. All our products are made by hand at low temperatures in small quality-controlled batches. Every aspect of each product is traceable and we take after-sales service very seriously. All of this adds up to the top quality, highly effective, ethical skin care range that is TSB.


3. What are your 3 must have skin care products?
• A gentle daily cleanser that removes everyday dirt and pollution without damaging the sebum content and upper structure of your skin.
• An organic moisturizer with high vitamin and antioxidant content to protect against UV radiation and preserve the moisture content of your skin. This is something you wear every day and is carried through your skin into your body so it should be at least as important as what you eat.
• An effective non-irritant aluminium-free deodorant, also a product most of us wear every day, so it is really important to find a non-toxic deodorant that works for you.

4. What products do you recommend people new to your range begin with?
It really depends on your individual skin care needs. For those prone to oiliness and breakouts, I can’t stress enough the importance of using a mild cleanser that won’t strip the sebum from your skin, causing the problem to worsen. Rose Geranium Cleansing Gel is
ideal as it is detergent-free, based on organic olive castile and aloe vera. The Green Tea Cleansing Mask teams well with this product to deep cleanse your skin, repair damage from infections and refine pores. For drier and mature skin, a high quality nourishing daily moisturizer that is not too heavy and dragging on your skin is a must. Rosewood Moisture Lotion is a lovely light daytime moisturizer with the vitamin and antioxidant protection of certified organic shea butter. Rosehip Eye Balm would go well with this to prevent dryness and wrinkles forming around the delicate eye area.

5. What is your most popular selling item and why?
Rose Geranium Moisture Balance. This moisturizer is a light gel consistency yet still contains certified organic jojoba, rosehip and evening primrose oils to help maintain the integrity of cell membranes, thus preventing moisture loss without being too oily. As the name suggests, this moisturizer is designed to balance oiliness and dehydration so it is particularly suitable for combination skin which actually is the most common skin type. It is also suitable for the lucky ones with normal skin as it will be neither too oily nor too drying. The light floral scent of lavender, geranium and ylang ylang is popular and a good quality moisturizer is everyone’s priority in skin care I think, so this product is a top seller.

6. Tell us something about yourself you are proud of.
There are not too many mentors in this business and I have had to invent my role every step of the way. As a small business, the outlays involved in outsourcing are considerable and ethical control over those aspects minimal, so I have thus far done pretty much everything myself, right down to designing and printing product labels. This has demanded passion and dedication to my business which I hope will reward me by providing worthwhile employment for others and helping to shift consumerism towards ethical choices.
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Aging - does diet really play a role?

February 12th 2009 04:31
The simple answer is yes. Environmental factors, nutritional status and dietary intake more than genes can add years to a person's appearance. While topical applications make a difference, a healthy glow is more often a sign of internal health than anything else. There is a growing body of evidence to show that what we eat certainly influences skin aging and not surprisingly, the dietary correlations that relate to reduced skin aging also relate to reduced aging in general. Apart from dietary interventions, research is showing that supplementation with specific nutrients and antioxidants supports the use of topical anti-aging products and that in fact the combination is more effective than either treatment alone. Below is a review of the most significant dietary and nutritional influences on aging.

An Australian study at Monash University looked at the effects of food and nutrient intake on skin wrinkling in areas exposed to the sun. The participants were from Melbourne, Greece and Sweden.

Food intake questionnaires were used to measure diet and microphotography of the skin was used to measure skin wrinkling. The study showed that Swedish had the least skin wrinkling, followed by Greeks and Australians had the most. The types of foods consumed did have an effect on the degree of skin wrinkling with more damage seen in those with a higher intake of meat, dairy and butter. Foods that had a protective effect against skin wrinkling included vegetables, legumes, olive oil, tea, prunes and apples (see full list below). Overall, positive dietary habits trended towards a low-GI diet.

Another study supports the above food associations showing that skin wrinkling in a sun-exposed site in older people of various ethnic backgrounds may be influenced reducing intakes of fats and carbohydrates and increasing antioxidants and beneficial fats, dietary measures which are associated with better skin-aging appearance.

It is worth noting that research linking skin aging and dietary habits should not be taken out of context. Overall dietary trends produce these effects rather than any single food group in isolation. However, the dietary trends in both studies show that high GI and saturated fats seem to have the most significant pro-wrinkling effect. Due to their higher saturated fat content meat, dairy and butter can increase skin inflammation and lead to faster skin aging. In addition a high sugar intake is also associated with greater skin wrinkling. Simple sugar has a pro-inflammatory effect but it also promotes the production of advanced glycosylation end products (AGE). AGEs are closely associated with oxidative stress. A combination of a high antioxidant diet and low sugar reduces inflammation, free radical damage and AGE production in the body. Again the trend shows that the protective foods are low or have no saturated fats and are low GI and rich in phytochemicals which support skin collagen and reduce inflammation.

The Monash study indicated that these foods associated with less wrinkling:

• Mono-unsaturated fat including those from olive oil and olives
• Nuts and legumes
• Vegetables
• Fish (particularly those rich in essential fatty acids)
• Low fat milk and milk products, such as yogurt
• Wholegrain cereals
• Fruit and fruit products (especially prunes, cherries and apples)
• Eggs
• Tea and Water

More wrinkling was associated with diets that included higher intakes of:

• Saturated fat (including butter)
• Trans fats (including margarine)
• Meat (especially fatty processed meats)
• Full fat dairy products
• Refined carbohydrates and sugars such as cakes, pastries and desserts
• Soft drinks and cordials
• Confectionary of any kind
• Many packaged and processed foods contain hidden sugars
• Packaged cereals

Apart from dietary trends, certain nutrients also show promising effects on skin aging. Studies have shown that antioxidant nutrients, specifically vitamins C and E, as well as lipoic acid and flavonoids, exert protective effect against oxidative stress in the skin, in particular photoprotective effects. That is they help protect the skin from the oxidative damage caused by the sun. Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin as a specific subset of carotenoids may also be used as oral sun protectants and contribute to the maintenance of skin health. In fact, taking carotenoids prior to sun exposure will increase the depth and lasting effect of a sun tan (not that extended tanning is advised).

In other research, a daily dosage of soy isoflavones (40mg per day) resulted in the improvement of fine wrinkles and increased skin elasticity after 12 weeks of supplementation in middle-aged women with aged skin. Interestingly, a common arthritis supplement glucosamine also improved the appearance of visible wrinkles and fine lines. Glucosamine is incorporated into glucosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the body. GAGs work to increase epidermal thickness and elasticity of the skin although they have no effect on skin hydration.

Research into oral proanthocyanidins flavanoids from grapeseed extract or pycnogenol has shown they both have a significant protective effect on the collagen matrix of the skin and capillaries. They work by reducing capillary fragility and inhibiting collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin breakdown. Both substances also have an anti-inflammatory effect and can improve peripheral circulation.

Again it is important to note that while supplemental nutrition can support skin health in a number of ways, if concurrent dietary changes aren’t made, the supplements will be combating the constant inflammatory cascade from high GI foods and saturated fats. Removing these dietary items will ensure that inflammation, AGEs and oxidation are all reduced allowing the supplements to work to their optimal level and effect real changes in skin health.

Author: Ananda Mahony ND. Ananda is a naturopath and skin specialist. She owns Vitale Natural, an organic skin care store and beauty salon in Paddington, Brisbane. www.vitalenatural.com.au
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Work out your skin type

December 2nd 2008 07:29
Skin type is predominantly a genetic trait. Generally our skin type doesn't change much over our lifetime. Nutritional status, our overall health, external factors such as sun damage and aging can cause changes in the integrity of our skin and our skin type may change as throughout your life. It is important to reassess your skin type so that you use the appropriate products. Using products that don’t suit your basic skin type can actually cause problems.

There are four key skin types: oily, combination, normal and dry. In addition to the basic skin types, there are skin issues which include congestion, sensitivity and dehydration. The characteristics of each skin type and issue are listed below. Please remember however, that every skin type is different and if you feel that you don’t fit into any of these types or have any of these issues, contact our skin specialist, who will assist you with a personalized skin analysis and product prescription.

Oily Skin – producing too much oil

Large or open pores
An oily appearance by midday or into the afternoon
Prone to blackheads, whiteheads and congestion
Possibly pustules


One of the common issues with oily skin is the use of creams that are too rich for the skin. The misconception is that a rich or heavy cream (by rich I mean including butters and waxes) will have a better moisturising effect. Regardless of the "richness" of a product, if it is chosen to correctly match the skin type, the moisture content and nutritional status of the skin will improve.

The other common misconception with oily skin is that not using a moisturiser at all will help reduce oilyness. Oily skins still need skin nutrition, moisture in the form of water and ingredients that will help to control sebum, the factor that creates "shine". A good moisturiser for oily will do all of these things.

The benefit of oily skin is that those with oily skin will tend to age more gracefully than their drier-skinned counterparts.

Click here to view products suited to an oily skin type

Combination skin - the most common skin type

Oily T-section or nose/chin and drier cheeks and eye area OR oily T-section and normal nose/chin skin
A tendency towards enlarged pores and blackheads on the t- zone.
Cheeks may feel comfortable in Summer or dry in Winter, depending on the humidity.

Many with combination skin tend to go for richer creams to help moisturise the drier sections of skin but this causes issues such as clogging and breakouts with the oily sections. A light but highly nourishing moisturiser combined with an eye cream is a better option than a rich cream. The other thing that is important is regular but gentle exfoliation to get rid of the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. On drier skin this is important to allow mositurisers to penetrate more easily. With the oily skin areas, it stops the buildup of dead skin cells in open pores.

Click here to view products for combination skin

Dry Skin – needs more oil

Never gets shiny - has a matte appearance all over.
Has very small or invisible pores.
May also feel tight or uncomfortable.
Can be prone to fine, crepey lines.

Dry skin lacks both sebum and moisture due to insufficient production by the sebaceous glands which reduces the cells ability to hold onto moisture. Usually dry skin is delicate with small or no obvious pores and quite fine textured. However, due to the lack of moisture and oil, it is likely to show obvious signs of aging sooner than other skin types such as wrinkles and fine lines. There may also be red or flaky patches evident.

First and foremost it is important with dry skin to prevent further drying out of the skin. To do this it is important to avoid alcohol based products as they worsen dryness. Daily moisturising is essential. It prevents moisture loss and supplies the skin with essential nutrients and oils to keep the cells well nourished. A healthy cell is more likely to hold onto moisture. Avoid foaming cleansers in general and particularly those containing sodium lauryl sulphate as they will disrupt the acid mantle and again reduce the moisture holding capacity of the skin.

Other tips include drinking enough water and eating plenty of essential fatty acids which are found in nuts & seeds, fish and flax oil.

Click here to view products for dry skin

Normal Skin - Neither oily nor dry

A smooth and even texture
Has small to medium pores.
May also get a little shiny on the T-zone towards late afternoon.
Occasionally be little dry on the cheeks.
Have the occasional pimple or blackhead.

Click here to view products for normal skin

Skin Issues
Dehydrated Skin

If your skin lacks radiance and feels "tight" it is likely that it is dehydrated. The appearance of fine lines due to loss of elasticity and flexibility are other key signs of dehydrated skin. Moisture evaporates readily through the skin, and if we don't stop this occurrence our skin loses its ability to protect against the outside environment leading to even more moisture loss and in the long term, actual skin damage due to poor cellular integrity. Check for these signs:

Flakiness
Fine, crepey lines on the surface of the skin
A dull complexion

Click here to view products suited to dehydrated skin

Sensitive Skin

Heightened skin sensitivity and adverse reactions to certain irritants characterizes sensitive skin. Common skin irritants include detergents, certain skin care ingredients particularly synthetics and petrochemical ingredients and environmental factors such as heat, sun exposure, cold and wind. There is a strong correlation between dry skin and sensitive skin. Those with thin or finely textured skin are more prone to skin sensitivity. Common characteristics of sensitivity include:

Red or blotchy skin
Easily reacts to certain skin care products
Stinging or uncomfortable sensations, particularly after cleansing
Prone to rashes and irritations
Reddening or burning skin as a result of sun, heat, cold or wind
Fine lines, spots or freckles that worsen with age

Click here to view products for sensitive skin

Congested Skin

Skin congestion is characterised by blocked pores, dull skin, uneven skin, blackheads and whiteheads.

Click here to view products for congested skin
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Clearing a Clogged Complexion

October 15th 2008 05:11
Treatment of of Blackheads

So, how to get rid of blackheads and congested skin? Well squeezing them out is not the answer. This technique will just lead to further skin irritation and possibly damage and scarring to the surrounding tissue. Rather than removing blackheads by squeezing, the best way to get rid of them is by attacking the source of the problem


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Unclog your complexion

October 13th 2008 05:08
Blocked pores, dull skin, uneven skin, blackheads and whiteheads...all signs of congested skin and often affecting not just teenagers, but adults too. Also knows as open comedomes, blackheads are literally tiny plugs in the opening of a follicle or pore on the skin. The pore plug is a combination of oils, sebum and dead skin cells. Open to the skin’s surface, the plug becomes darkened as it is exposed to oxygen. Whiteheads are closed at the skin’s surface, blocked by cellular debris but not exposed to oxygen so remain light in colour.

Blackheads, whiteheads and blocked pores are usually caused by a combination of factors. Excess skin oil, sebum and toxins that are expelled through the skin are often an underlying issue. In addition dead skin cells, pollution, occlusive make up and dirt also play a role by filling up pores already opened by sebum and oil production. Each factor will contribute to congestion in a different but significant way


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The chemical cocktail

September 29th 2008 02:15
Glowing skin, fewer wrinkles, no blemishes, fuller lips, and of course the benefits that come automatically from all this such as a hot guy at your side and the envying glances of every woman in the room. And amazingly, all easily achievable with the latest miracle cream! It’s easy to believe what the skincare giants promise, but do you know what you are actually slathering onto your skin?

Remember the scene in Goldfinger when the Bond girl is covered in gold paint and dies because her skin suffocates? While it is doubtful whether anyone would regularly practise anything so obviously wacky (not to mention expensive!) the outcome itself is not as crazy as it sounds. We tend to forget that the skin is the largest organ of the body,and every day we apply a chemical cocktail of substances in ignorant bliss, unaware that up to 60% of anything applied topically can be absorbed into our bodies. As the average woman uses up to 14 different skincare and cosmetic products each day, this calculates to a massive two kilograms of different chemicals each year seeping into our systems. So why does this matter? With many of the synthetic ingredients used in everyday skin care being potentially toxic to humans, you may like to reconsider some of the following


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Green (and Pink) is the new Black!

September 15th 2008 07:43
THE NEW BLACK

Walk down the personal care isle of the supermarket isles and you might see 3 or 4 hair products with “organic” or “natural” ingredients or branded with an organic sounding name. Take a closer look at the label and you will soon realize that underneath the feel good name these products are still made of synthetic cleansers, include artificial fragrances and are chock full of preservatives. True to label claim there may be ½ a percent of an organic essential oil or herbal extract but is this what we really expect as consumers when we read “organic” or “natural” on the label of a product? Practices such as these are known as greenwashing. To be more specific, when a company or organization misleads consumers by claiming have green practices or sell green products without actually having any or limited basis for this claim, this is known as greenwashing


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Apart from gender & age group (see Which Mulit is right for you?), there are a number of other factors which may influence your choice of multi vitamin/mineral:

1. Dosage – most multis these days are “one-a-day” however some may require a second tablet to meet a higher daily intake of nutrients. While one tablet a day is convenient, keep in mind that a multi generally offers lower doses of essential nutrients and is usually not enough to counteract a specific nutrient deficiency. A specific nutrient deficiency is considered a serious condition. Higher doses of nutrients may be required and in such cases the supervision of a health care provider is essential


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In an ideal world, we would get all the nutrition we need from the food we eat however research supports what many holistic health professionals have long said, in this day and age we simply aren’t getting the nutrients we need from our diet. Reasons for this lack are numerous from poor nutrient soil quality and intensive farming techniques to western food diets and modern day stressors placing a greater demand on our bodies. The lack of nutrient intake has become so significant that The Journal of American Medical Association (JAMA) now recommends a daily multivitamin as a way of supporting our nutritional needs and promoting better health.

A daily multi may not answer to all of today’s ills but it is seen as a form of “insurance” against less than optimal nutrient intake (Fletcher & Fairfield, 2002). Taking a daily multi may also promote increased energy and reduced stress levels in the short term. In the long term, it may offer some benefits for increased cardiovascular health and improved eye and brain health as well as a decreased risk of osteoporosis


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12 tips for great skin

August 25th 2008 03:22
Good skin can be natural but it can also take some maintenance. Here are 12 tips that
1. Stay Hydrated. Our skin reflects our state of hydration. Dehydrated skin is sign of total body dehydration. Start the day with half a lemon squeezed into 300mls of water. The lemon will stimulate the cells of the body to absorb the water increasing hydration levels.

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Part Two - Black Soap from Africa.

Traditionally Anago has been used for cleansing from head to toe and including hair. It is gentle enough to clean new born babies delicate skin and sensitive or damaged skin but it is also used very effectively for acne prone, oily and blemished skin. The mildness of this soap makes it suitable for all skins. Some of the traditional ingredients such as Agow Bark and plantain leaf add healing qualities to the soap. Agow bark has a mild antiseptic effect making it useful for minimising acne-causing bacteria. While Anago does not generally contain “grains” the inclusion of Plantain provides gentle exfoliation and enzymatic qualities clearing the skin of dead cells


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If you are used to conventional, fragranced white soap then African Black Soap is big departure from this standard. Also known as Ose (soap) Dudu (black), or Anago after the Anago language of Nigeria, black soap originates in West Africa. Made for thousands of years, this is a mild soap that is different from any soap you will have used before.

Traditionally Anago is made from an organic compound of pure oils, butters and roasted plants, each village or region with their own recipe, which is handed down from generation to generation and often a secret which helps with local trade and avoids poor imitations. Ingredients such as dried, roasted cocoa pods and plantain peels along with butters such as shea butter or coconut give it the distinctive colour which ranges from light tan to dark chocolate brown depending on the mix of local ingredients used to make it. In its raw form it often contains pockets of plant matter which are compressed into the soap. The coastal regions of Africa tend to produce soap that has a higher percentage of coconut oil, while the interior regions product soap that contains more Shea butter (1


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Heal Dehydrated Skin - Part 3

March 6th 2008 08:31
The final installment of "Heal Dehydrated Skin"........Most cosmetic products on the market don’t actually help the skin repair damage to the barrier or acid mantle. They act as emollients, reducing water loss from the skin by covering it with a protective layer. Effectively they keep water in the skin. Common emollient ingredients include butters, waxes and oils as well as products such as petroleum and lanolin. While emollients are helping to reduce the problem, they aren’t actually remedying the underlying cause. The other issue with some emollient ingredients is that they may actually cause more problems.

Petroleum products such as mineral oil sit on the surface of the skin, stopping the skin from breathing and have the potential to block pores. By contrast natural waxes and oils allow the skin to breath. Some of the heavier waxes or butters may still block pores however natural carrier and essential oils are unlikely to have this effect


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Heal Dehydrated Skin - Part 2

March 5th 2008 08:30
Following on from Part 1......Skin dehydration occurs when the water and oils that form part of the protective layer are out of balance. This can happen for a number of reasons:

1. Evaporation of moisture through the skin. Factors that promote moisture evaporation include dry air (ie lack of humidity or airconditioning), wind, prolonged water exposure (swimming in pools or long showers


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