Tonya Lachey
NaomiCold Pressed Soap
December 13th 2007 01:29
Link: www.vitalenatural.com.au
The use and manufacture of soap is reported as far back as Babylonia circa 2200BC. Even further back in history the discovery of soap reportedly occurred when fat from cooking dripped into fire ashes and the chemical reaction that took place created soap. A few refinements and the process of soap making essentially remained the same including early commercial production until the 1920’s when synthetic soaps were first developed.
A traditional cold pressed soap is made by reacting fats or oils together with lye, a solution of caustic soda or caustic potash dissolved in water. The fats and oils used may be derived from animal or vegetable sources, with Castile soaps, a particular type originating from Castile in Spain, made from olive oil. Other oils employed in the manufacture of cold pressed soaps include coconut oil, castor oil, palm oil and rice bran oil in combination with olive oil. Ingredients such as essential oils, natural clays, honey, flowers and oatmeal may be added to create individual soaps that sometimes look like works of art.
Soap making incorporates a process called saponification in which the glycerol and fatty acid components of the oil are acted upon by lye to make a mixture of soap and glycerin. Lye may be a solution of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) or caustic potash (potassium hydroxide) dissolved in water. Once the soap has been saponified and matured, no caustic agents will remain. This process ensures the glycerin is retained unlike commercial soap making. Retaining the glycerin makes a softer, milder soap which is emollient and moisturising to the skin. The bubbles from such soap are small and fine but plentiful.
One of the benefits of a traditional cold pressed soap is that there is usually an excess of oil or fat used in the process of saponification. This leads to an effect called “superfatting”. This along with the retained glycerin creates a soap that is far more skin friendly than commercial soaps or surfactants. Some soap makers include emollients at the later stages of the saponification such as castor oil, jojoba oil or shea butter which retain their benefits in the finished soap. Superfatting gives a milder, smoother lather and a softer feel on the skin.
Cold pressed soaps are generally cured for at least 4 weeks and up to 8 weeks. This method produces a white hard soap, which hardens further as it ages, without losing its whiteness. All cold pressed soaps are long lasting if they are allowed to dry between uses however Castile soaps will generally last longer than those using palm oil. Regardless of the base oil, if left in a dish with water these soap will dissolve quite quickly due to the retained glycerine content. Storing cold pressed soap in a soap rack is ideal.
By contrast to traditional soap making methods, many of the cleaning agents used today, both for personal care and for clothes washing are essentially detergents, not actually soaps and are known in the industry as “syndets” or surfactants. A surfactant refers to a class of substances that reduce surface tension and thereby allow water to penetrate more easily and clean away dirt. The issue with syndets is that they are generally made from petrochemicals or oil fractions rather than the whole oil.
The most common syndet or surfactant is Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) which can be found in liquid soaps and personal care items such as shampoo, cleansers and bubble bath. A syndet product is generally quick to lather, wash off easily and leave little or no residue on the skin however, they may also cause dryness or irritation for those with sensitive skin. Commercial bar soaps for bathing purposes may still use fat rather than synthetic surfactants, usually beef tallow instead of a vegetable oil base such as olive oil or palm oil.
As mentioned above, commercial soap making generally distill the glycerine out of the soap to sell separately. This factor and the cheap materials such as SLS or beef tallow is one reason that commercial soaps are so much cheaper as compared to a traditionally made soap.
One of the issues with syndets is the effect on the acid mantle of the skin. The acid mantle is comprised of a mix of sweat and sebum on the skin surface which forms a protective layer. The acid mantle helps protect our skin from the elements such as wind and pollution as well as inhibiting the growth of fungi and bacterial. The pH of the acid mantle ranges from 4 to 5.5 which is considered slightly acidic. If disrupted the acid mantle becomes open to the elements and more prone to damage and infection.
Washing with any soap strips away surface oils (acid mantle) in order to cleanse. The difference is the degree of the skin’s natural oils that are washed away and acid mantle recovery time. Superfatted soaps tend to wash away less of natural oils as well as encouraging rapid acid mantle recovery after use ie the pH of the skin returns to normal very quickly after use as compared to commercial soaps. The other issue is that commercial soaps & synthetic detergents not only strip away more of the skin’s natural barrier but may also lead to thinning and permeability of the skin. A good way to know if your skin is being adversely affected by the use of commercial soaps or detergents is if it feels tight or dry after cleansing.
The benefits of natural glycerine rich soaps, particularly when compared to commercial soaps are many. Cold pressed soap acts as a humectant, drawing moisture from the air to your skin. This is ideal for those with sensitive skin, for conditions such as eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis or anyone allergic to commercial soap because it doesn’t completely strip the skin of natural, beneficial oils. In addition pure castile soap is also mild enough to use on babies' delicate skins.
Given the effect of syndets on the skin, alternatives such as cold pressed soaps is a natural choice. Start by reading the labels of your everyday body care products to see what ingredients are included. Look for soaps made from ingredients such as pure olive, coconut, rice bran, palm or castor oil. Alternatively choose products labelled Natural or Castile Soap which is available in both liquid or bar form. Avoiding hair care, body washes, facial cleansers and other foaming products such as bubble bath that contain sodium lauryl sulphate is a good idea particularly if you have sensitive skin.
Cold pressed soaps are a bathing treat, creamy on the skin and delicious to use. The return to traditional soap making methods is certainly a positive step in soap making for both cottage industry as well as the end users - you and me!
Ananda Mahony ND is a naturopath and holistic skin specialist. Her practice focuses on the treatment of skin conditions. Ananda also owns Vitale Natural Skin & Body Care, a natural & organic skin care store in Paddington. www.vitalenatural.com.au
A traditional cold pressed soap is made by reacting fats or oils together with lye, a solution of caustic soda or caustic potash dissolved in water. The fats and oils used may be derived from animal or vegetable sources, with Castile soaps, a particular type originating from Castile in Spain, made from olive oil. Other oils employed in the manufacture of cold pressed soaps include coconut oil, castor oil, palm oil and rice bran oil in combination with olive oil. Ingredients such as essential oils, natural clays, honey, flowers and oatmeal may be added to create individual soaps that sometimes look like works of art.
Soap making incorporates a process called saponification in which the glycerol and fatty acid components of the oil are acted upon by lye to make a mixture of soap and glycerin. Lye may be a solution of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) or caustic potash (potassium hydroxide) dissolved in water. Once the soap has been saponified and matured, no caustic agents will remain. This process ensures the glycerin is retained unlike commercial soap making. Retaining the glycerin makes a softer, milder soap which is emollient and moisturising to the skin. The bubbles from such soap are small and fine but plentiful.
One of the benefits of a traditional cold pressed soap is that there is usually an excess of oil or fat used in the process of saponification. This leads to an effect called “superfatting”. This along with the retained glycerin creates a soap that is far more skin friendly than commercial soaps or surfactants. Some soap makers include emollients at the later stages of the saponification such as castor oil, jojoba oil or shea butter which retain their benefits in the finished soap. Superfatting gives a milder, smoother lather and a softer feel on the skin.
Cold pressed soaps are generally cured for at least 4 weeks and up to 8 weeks. This method produces a white hard soap, which hardens further as it ages, without losing its whiteness. All cold pressed soaps are long lasting if they are allowed to dry between uses however Castile soaps will generally last longer than those using palm oil. Regardless of the base oil, if left in a dish with water these soap will dissolve quite quickly due to the retained glycerine content. Storing cold pressed soap in a soap rack is ideal.
By contrast to traditional soap making methods, many of the cleaning agents used today, both for personal care and for clothes washing are essentially detergents, not actually soaps and are known in the industry as “syndets” or surfactants. A surfactant refers to a class of substances that reduce surface tension and thereby allow water to penetrate more easily and clean away dirt. The issue with syndets is that they are generally made from petrochemicals or oil fractions rather than the whole oil.
The most common syndet or surfactant is Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) which can be found in liquid soaps and personal care items such as shampoo, cleansers and bubble bath. A syndet product is generally quick to lather, wash off easily and leave little or no residue on the skin however, they may also cause dryness or irritation for those with sensitive skin. Commercial bar soaps for bathing purposes may still use fat rather than synthetic surfactants, usually beef tallow instead of a vegetable oil base such as olive oil or palm oil.
As mentioned above, commercial soap making generally distill the glycerine out of the soap to sell separately. This factor and the cheap materials such as SLS or beef tallow is one reason that commercial soaps are so much cheaper as compared to a traditionally made soap.
One of the issues with syndets is the effect on the acid mantle of the skin. The acid mantle is comprised of a mix of sweat and sebum on the skin surface which forms a protective layer. The acid mantle helps protect our skin from the elements such as wind and pollution as well as inhibiting the growth of fungi and bacterial. The pH of the acid mantle ranges from 4 to 5.5 which is considered slightly acidic. If disrupted the acid mantle becomes open to the elements and more prone to damage and infection.
Washing with any soap strips away surface oils (acid mantle) in order to cleanse. The difference is the degree of the skin’s natural oils that are washed away and acid mantle recovery time. Superfatted soaps tend to wash away less of natural oils as well as encouraging rapid acid mantle recovery after use ie the pH of the skin returns to normal very quickly after use as compared to commercial soaps. The other issue is that commercial soaps & synthetic detergents not only strip away more of the skin’s natural barrier but may also lead to thinning and permeability of the skin. A good way to know if your skin is being adversely affected by the use of commercial soaps or detergents is if it feels tight or dry after cleansing.
The benefits of natural glycerine rich soaps, particularly when compared to commercial soaps are many. Cold pressed soap acts as a humectant, drawing moisture from the air to your skin. This is ideal for those with sensitive skin, for conditions such as eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis or anyone allergic to commercial soap because it doesn’t completely strip the skin of natural, beneficial oils. In addition pure castile soap is also mild enough to use on babies' delicate skins.
Given the effect of syndets on the skin, alternatives such as cold pressed soaps is a natural choice. Start by reading the labels of your everyday body care products to see what ingredients are included. Look for soaps made from ingredients such as pure olive, coconut, rice bran, palm or castor oil. Alternatively choose products labelled Natural or Castile Soap which is available in both liquid or bar form. Avoiding hair care, body washes, facial cleansers and other foaming products such as bubble bath that contain sodium lauryl sulphate is a good idea particularly if you have sensitive skin.
Cold pressed soaps are a bathing treat, creamy on the skin and delicious to use. The return to traditional soap making methods is certainly a positive step in soap making for both cottage industry as well as the end users - you and me!
Ananda Mahony ND is a naturopath and holistic skin specialist. Her practice focuses on the treatment of skin conditions. Ananda also owns Vitale Natural Skin & Body Care, a natural & organic skin care store in Paddington. www.vitalenatural.com.au
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