Ananda Mahony
NaomiDry Skin Solutions (LINK)
July 2nd 2008 00:33
Part 2 - Solutions for Dehydrated Skin
The first thing to do to combat skin dehydration is to remove any factors that directly contribute to moisture loss or skin damage. Avoid long, hot showers, open the windows instead of relying on air-conditioning and stop using products that contain sodium laurel sulphate. Repairing these factors will slow down water loss. Dietary factors will be addressed below but certainly ensure you are getting enough water each day which will help increase water content.
The next step is to repair the waterproof barrier and restore the skin's ability to attract and retain water. Ideally any skin care product applied will have a number of roles which include delivering nutrition which assists with repair, maintenance of the acid mantle and moisture barrier and a softening effect achieved by attracting water from the external environment. To achieve this, the ingredients must be able to be absorbed properly by the skin. Water based ingredients may have a temporary plumping effect on the surface of the skin but this effect will not last as the ingredients haven't been absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin. Lipids and oil soluble ingredients are more readily absorbed by the skin as are ingredients that have a smaller particle size.
Most cosmetic products on the market don't actually help the skin repair damage to the barrier or acid mantle. They act as emollients, reducing water loss from the skin by covering it with a protective layer. Effectively they keep water in the skin. Common emollient ingredients include butters, waxes and oils as well as products such as petroleum and lanolin. While emollients are helping to reduce the problem, they aren't actually remedying the underlying cause. The other issue with some emollient ingredients is that they may actually cause more problems.
Petroleum products such as mineral oil sit on the surface of the skin, stopping the skin from breathing and have the potential to block pores. By contrast natural waxes and oils allow the skin to breath. Some of the heavier waxes or butters may still block pores however natural carrier and essential oils are unlikely to have this effect.
When it comes to ingredients that achieve this end, our natural pantry is rich in ingredients that can help restore skin hydration rather than just masking the problem. Many natural carrier oils such as Rosehip, Sweet Almond, Tamanu, Marula, Jojoba and Evening Primrose Oil are readily absorbed by the skin. They have the ability to nourish the skin, provide an effective barrier to water loss and reduce TEWL.
Oils such as Rosehip also contain essential fatty acids (EFAs) that promote the repair of the cellular membrane, allowing skin cells to retain more water. Ironically if the skin cells are deficient in EFAs, it can cause the sebaceous glands to become overactive, producing more oil. With an EFA deficiency, the skin will often be oily through the T-zone and dry across the cheeks. As long as the appropriate natural carrier oils are used, they can have a balancing effect, reducing both oily and dry skin conditions. Ideal choices for skin that is both oily and dry include Rosehip and Sweet Almond.
Many carrier oils such Marula, Rosehip and Boabab also contain essential skin vitamins such as A, E and C that promote healthy cellular function. As antioxidants, the vitamins also help slow skin ageing.
What you do on the "inside" also has an impact in skin hydration. Reducing factors that have a diuretic effect such as alcohol and coffee will increase cellular hydration. The other key issue is ensuring adequate good fats in the diet. Good fats such as essential fatty acids (EFA's) ensure the cell membrane remains flexible. This allows the cell to excrete toxins and cellular waste products and hold onto nutrients and water. EFAs also help to keep skin flexible and hydrated and promoting skin healing. Deep Sea fish are among the best source of EFAs including tuna, salmon, anchovies and sardines. Other good sources of EFA's include avocado, nuts & seeds, flaxoil and Evening Primrose Oil.
Ananda Mahony ND is a naturopath and holistic skin specialist. Her practice focuses on the treatment of skin conditions. Ananda also owns Vitale Natural Skin & Body Care, a natural & organic skin care store in Paddington. www.vitalenatural.com.au
The first thing to do to combat skin dehydration is to remove any factors that directly contribute to moisture loss or skin damage. Avoid long, hot showers, open the windows instead of relying on air-conditioning and stop using products that contain sodium laurel sulphate. Repairing these factors will slow down water loss. Dietary factors will be addressed below but certainly ensure you are getting enough water each day which will help increase water content.
The next step is to repair the waterproof barrier and restore the skin's ability to attract and retain water. Ideally any skin care product applied will have a number of roles which include delivering nutrition which assists with repair, maintenance of the acid mantle and moisture barrier and a softening effect achieved by attracting water from the external environment. To achieve this, the ingredients must be able to be absorbed properly by the skin. Water based ingredients may have a temporary plumping effect on the surface of the skin but this effect will not last as the ingredients haven't been absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin. Lipids and oil soluble ingredients are more readily absorbed by the skin as are ingredients that have a smaller particle size.
Most cosmetic products on the market don't actually help the skin repair damage to the barrier or acid mantle. They act as emollients, reducing water loss from the skin by covering it with a protective layer. Effectively they keep water in the skin. Common emollient ingredients include butters, waxes and oils as well as products such as petroleum and lanolin. While emollients are helping to reduce the problem, they aren't actually remedying the underlying cause. The other issue with some emollient ingredients is that they may actually cause more problems.
Petroleum products such as mineral oil sit on the surface of the skin, stopping the skin from breathing and have the potential to block pores. By contrast natural waxes and oils allow the skin to breath. Some of the heavier waxes or butters may still block pores however natural carrier and essential oils are unlikely to have this effect.
When it comes to ingredients that achieve this end, our natural pantry is rich in ingredients that can help restore skin hydration rather than just masking the problem. Many natural carrier oils such as Rosehip, Sweet Almond, Tamanu, Marula, Jojoba and Evening Primrose Oil are readily absorbed by the skin. They have the ability to nourish the skin, provide an effective barrier to water loss and reduce TEWL.
Oils such as Rosehip also contain essential fatty acids (EFAs) that promote the repair of the cellular membrane, allowing skin cells to retain more water. Ironically if the skin cells are deficient in EFAs, it can cause the sebaceous glands to become overactive, producing more oil. With an EFA deficiency, the skin will often be oily through the T-zone and dry across the cheeks. As long as the appropriate natural carrier oils are used, they can have a balancing effect, reducing both oily and dry skin conditions. Ideal choices for skin that is both oily and dry include Rosehip and Sweet Almond.
Many carrier oils such Marula, Rosehip and Boabab also contain essential skin vitamins such as A, E and C that promote healthy cellular function. As antioxidants, the vitamins also help slow skin ageing.
What you do on the "inside" also has an impact in skin hydration. Reducing factors that have a diuretic effect such as alcohol and coffee will increase cellular hydration. The other key issue is ensuring adequate good fats in the diet. Good fats such as essential fatty acids (EFA's) ensure the cell membrane remains flexible. This allows the cell to excrete toxins and cellular waste products and hold onto nutrients and water. EFAs also help to keep skin flexible and hydrated and promoting skin healing. Deep Sea fish are among the best source of EFAs including tuna, salmon, anchovies and sardines. Other good sources of EFA's include avocado, nuts & seeds, flaxoil and Evening Primrose Oil.
Ananda Mahony ND is a naturopath and holistic skin specialist. Her practice focuses on the treatment of skin conditions. Ananda also owns Vitale Natural Skin & Body Care, a natural & organic skin care store in Paddington. www.vitalenatural.com.au
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