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Shine in 2009

December 17th 2008 07:38
Make your year Shine in 2009. My rhyming aside, it is a nice thought as 2008 comes to an end! So with a forward focus I place the emphasis of this post on goal setting for skin care. But I am not posting my blog here this time, rather offering the opportunity to read me and 14 other writers discuss goal setting across a range of topics from finance, to body image, to giving up smoking and of course, skin care.

Your Year to Shine 2009 is a collaborative e-book with the intention of putting a positive focus on the coming year. I hope you enjoy it and if you have any comments, good, bad or indifferent I would love to hear them.


Click here to access a copy of Your Year to Shine in 2009

Happy reading!
Year to Shine


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When you open a magazine and look at the “new season” cosmetic colours, do you sometimes wonder if they will suit you at all? I was on a well known cosmetic website recently and I went through a questionnaire to determine what cosmetic colours from the range suited me. For those of you that haven’t met me, I have dark brown hair, blue eyes and pale skin that burns and never tans! So I was very surprised that the result was that “Peaches, oranges and corals” would suit me perfectly. Well once or twice I have been overcome by the need to feel up to date and bought “this seasons” colours in these shades. I can tell you know, they have all been given away or thrown away. In these shades I look like I am sickly and even about to be sick…not a look I was going for. The reason is that I have cool undertones, and peach, orange and coral are warm undertone colours. Naturally they don’t suit me and in fact clash with my skin tone.


Skin tone has a very significant influence on how certain colours look against your skin. When I wear the colours that suit me, I get compliments about my skin. When I don’t, the circles under my eyes stand out despite make up, my skin looks redder and (don’t tell anyone this) but the hair on the top of my lip looks darker whereas usually it is invisible. Yes, just the shade of my blouse can have this effect. So when I do wear the wrong shade of clothing or makeup, I tend to apply more foundation and wear brighter lipstick to compensate for this effect.

Skin undertone is the most significant factor in determining what colours/shades of makeup and clothing suit you. So how do you find out? Lavera Cosmetics has come up with a very simple test which I have outlined below. A tip, most Australians have a cool skin type…but often wear warm tones.

Cool Skin Type
If you belong to the cool types, your skin has a cool, bluish foundation tone. The hair has a cool ash tone and can also range from blonde to dark brown. A simple test: Place a silver-coloured cloth under your face this allows your complexion to glow, whereas a gold-coloured cloth makes the skin look tired. If you belong to the cooler type, these colours, for example, will suit you: black, light grey, pink, cold rose, lilac, claret, ice blue, marine, silver, mint, stone grey.

Warm Skin Type
If you belong to the warm types, your complexion has a yellow – golden foundation tone. The hair always has a warm gold shimmer or honey tone and can range from middle blonde to gold-brown, from red to brown. Your personal test: Hold a gold- coloured cloth under your chin – if your complexion appears noticeably fresher, you belong to the warmer type. In contrast, a silver-coloured cloth makes you appear pale and washed-out. If you belong to the warmer type, these colours for example, will suit you: tomato, chocolate brown, cream, salmon, apricot, olive, watermelon, brick red, orange, moss green.

Based on the test above, I have grouped all of the Minerelle and Lavera Make Up into Cool and Warm categories.

Cool Skin Types
Minerelle:
Megan Foundation
Skyla Foundation
Abbey Lipstick
Tina Lipstick
Marie Lipstick
Dream Eyeshadow
Flirt Eyeshadow
Bloom Eyeshadow
Kiss Eyeshadow
Elusive Eyeshadow
Rose Blush
Black Mascara

Lavera:
Tinted Moisturising Cream
Make-up light No. 1 (for lighter skin)
Make-up naturel No. 2 (for darker skin)
Concealer No. 1 (for lighter skin)
Concealer No. 2 (for darker skin)
Compact Powder No. 1 (for lighter skin)
Compact Powder No. 2 (for darker skin)
Loose Powder transparent
Powder Rouge No. 2
Eye Shadow No. 1
Eye Shadow No. 2
Eye Liner No. 1
Eye Liner No. 3
Eye Liner No. 4
Volume Mascara No. 1
Volume Mascara No. 2
Lipstick No. 14
Lipstick No. 15
Lipstick No. 16
Lipstick No. 17
Lipstick No. 18
Lipstick No. 19
Lipstick No. 20
Lipstick No. 21
Lip Gloss No. 4
Lip Gloss No. 6

Warm Skin Types

Minerelle:
Pamela Foundation
Claire Foundation
Bhavna Foundation
Lesley Lipstick
Glenda Lipstick
Kate Lipstick
Magic Eyeshadow
Joy Eyeshadow
Romance Eyeshadow
Serene Eyeshadow
Tease Eyeshadow
Calypso Blush
Gypsy Blush


Lavera:

Tinted Moisturising Cream
Make-up naturel No. 1 (for lighter skin)
Make-up light No. 2 (for darker skin)
Concealer No. 1 (for lighter skin)
Concealer No. 2 (for darker skin)
Compact Powder No. 1 (for lighter skin)
Compact Powder No. 2 (for darker skin)
Loose Powder transparent
Powder Rouge No. 1
Eye Shadow No. 3
Eye Shadow No. 4
Eye Liner No. 2
Eye Liner No. 5
Volume Mascara No. 1
Volume Mascara No. 3
Lipstick No. 20
Lipstick No. 21
Lipstick No. 22
Lipstick No. 23
Lipstick No. 24
Lipstick No. 25
Lipstick No. 26
Lipstick No. 27
Lip Gloss No. 4
Lip Gloss No. 5
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Monobrows, trends and the movies

October 1st 2008 04:36
While waiting for my brows to grow, I thought I would continue with the eyebrow theme. When discussing this topic with my Dad, he told me about brow trends and beauty status in Uzbekistan. As with other Central Asian countries, eyebrows that grow together over the bridge of the nose…yes we are talking “the monobrow” are a symbol of ultimate beauty for Uzbek women. Sometimes if this look doesn’t come naturally Uzbek women will actually pencil the space between brows to get the right effect. This discussion reminded me how cultural beauty is and how unfortunate it is in some ways that with global trends, we are losing some of the cultural nuances in our appreciation and expression of beauty.
Uzbek Brows
The beauty of a monobrow

It also reminds me of a thankfully short time in my life I call “the Groucho Marx Incident”. This incident was actually just a visit to a beauty therapist for a brow tint. The tint was left on far too long and I came out with thick, black brows that made me look like the female version of Groucho Marx. After rubbing my brows raw with a toothbrush, to no avail I might add, I just had to wait for them to fade. Fortunately, there are no photos of this time in my life. When I work up the courage to have my brows tinted now days, I remind my therapists that less is more!
Groucho Marx
Bushy Eyebrows are OUT

Another discussion sparked by “My 90’s Brow’s” was with a make-up artist who told me that apart from clothing styles, one of the most important visual cues that provide authenticity across different eras is eyebrows. For example, during the 20’s thinner brows that had been severely plucked was the trend with many actresses shaving their brows, never to have them grow back properly again. The 30’s were still highly plucked but with exaggerated height and length.

In the 40s eyebrows started to gain a more natural appearance again but by the 50s, thick, dark eyebrows with a distinct arch were the trend. The 60’s saw the use of pencils to fill in brows, creating a fuller brow with distinct pencil lines. By the 70’s it was a return to a basically natural look brow again. Unfortunately we hit the 80’s and everything was excessive including the brow – I call it the decade of caterpillar brows!

Skipping the 90’s, as that is what I am still living with, we are now headed for a natural look again. And to that I say “thank goodness”!
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My 90's Brows!

September 4th 2008 00:46
Step away from the mirror, the bigger brow is back. Not ungroomed or the hairy brow of the 80s, rather something in between with an arch in the middle, a definite angle and trimmed on top.

This is the advice I was given when informed, not unkindly, that I had out of date brows. Yes they are so 90's! What is a 90's brow was my first question. Brow fashion in the 90s was lighter, thinner with more arch and less angle. Think Linda Evangalista. Unfortunately for me I didn't realise this was OUT


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We all love a good pamper, that is when we finally stop and take the time to enjoy it. Most of the time we are too busy, too stressed, put ourselves last or just don’t think we deserve it and so miss out. Regular pampering is more than just looking good; it is an important form of self care. If we take the time to slow down and enjoy some pampering, it re-fuels our mind and body, allowing us to cope more effectively with life. Essentially, pampering is an important aspect of our health and wellbeing.

One question I regularly ask people who think they are too busy to pamper themselves is “if you don’t look after yourself, how can you help look after your loved ones”. Pampering gives important time for rest and recuperation and allows us time out from everyday demands. If we care for ourselves, then we have more energy to work, to play and to be part of our friends and families lives


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Every so often I come across new research that influences the way I approach the treatment of skin conditions. A recent article published in Medical Hypothesis journal has shown a definite link between obesity and psoriasis. Obesity leads to a greater risk of developing psoriasis and loosing weight may improve the long term outcome of this condition.

The key link between the two conditions is inflammation. Obesity is associated with chronic low grade inflammation which may contribute to psoriatic lesions. Changes in weight can help to reduce obesity associated inflammation which in turn reduces the progression of psoriasis


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Ethno Botanicals from Africa Part 3

January 25th 2008 00:29
Something went askew in my brain over the last week. What was meant to be a 2 part blog actually has 3 parts and there are heaps of spelling mistakes. Excuse the format because the content is fascinating! So Part 3 of Ethno Botanicals from Africa:

Now for something different. A compound for cleansing that is so unique, so pure and so good for your skin. Well it’s called a soap, but not actually a soap at all


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Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA) is a naturally occurring complex found in foods such as spinach, broccoli and yeast. Internally, ALA is essential for cell function, energy production and as an antioxidant, but it is not essential in the nutritional sense because our bodies make it. Our skin also makes this substance however as we age the level in our skin and body declines. Older skin may actually be ‘starved’ of this important nutrient.

As an antioxidant, ALA is both water and fat soluble, which means it is able to reach and protect both water and lipid portions of skin. This is particularly relevant to our skin as fats play a vital role in maintaining healthy skin. One of the roles ALA plays in the health of the skin is to inhibit cross- linking which is the formation of chemical bridges between proteins or other large molecules. Cross- linking contributes to the aging process by causing hardening of arteries, stiffening of the joints and wrinkling of the skin


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Just back from holidays from rainy Northern NSW. While away I came across a number of articles about potentially dangerous ingredients in everyday skin care. Over the next little while I will look at a number of these ingredients and the potential issues their inclusion in skin care creates.

Propylene Glycol is a humectant and humidifying agent. This ingredient is generally used in brake fluid, anti freeze, laundry detergents, paints and floor wax. It is also used in the cosmetic industry and in some foods to keep products from melting or freezing in extreme temperatures by maintaining a balanced moisture content. Propylene glycol is on the US Food and Drug Administration's list of ingredients which are Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) and is recognized by the World Health Organization as safe for use


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Lead found in popular lipstick brands

December 19th 2007 00:29
A recent article in Reuters revealed that more than half the lipsticks of popular brands such as Cover Girl, L'Oreal and Christian Dior contain lead. Over 33 red lipsticks were tested in conjunction with The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and it was found that 61% contained detectable levels of lead (0.03 to 0.65 parts per million (ppm)).

While 0.03 ppm may not seem like a lot, the concern with any lead content is that it is not easily detoxified and is readily stored by the body. Additionally, estimates indicate the average woman consumes up to 1kg of lipstick each year. This is where lead levels become serious cause for concern


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Can Oils Save Our Skin

December 14th 2007 02:40
A guest author today Lisa Phipps: Creator of REMEDICa Australia Skin Nutritives.

Healthy, beautiful skin can be difficult to maintain when we are bombarded with daily elements of hectic lifestyles, and often-unfavourable environments. Sadly it is a fact that our skin, the largest organ, designed to protect from and interact with the environment is subject to the inescapable events of internal and external stressors


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Once again I have been distracted. I am halfway through an article on carbohydrats but keep finding other topics to write about. Mineral Make Up was recently the topic of a positive story on A Current Affair. And so...my article, well that and the fact that I love mineral make up.

As a skin care specialist and someone that has suffered from skin problems in the past I am always looking for quality cosmetics and make up that minimise the impact of synthetic chemicals while at the same time support skin health. With commercial foundations this has always been difficult. Despite their ability to “cover up” many foundations contain a raft of chemical ingredients that actually worsen skin conditions such as acne and rosacea, irritate sensitive skin and significantly contribute to pore congestion


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Pelotherapy – Bathe your body in Clay

November 1st 2007 01:00
This article is a little diversion from the Food As Medicine series which will be continuing...but I was distracted by this topic and thought I would write about it.

Clay has been used as a cosmetic ingredient and healing agent in Europe as far back as the 12th century and even before then by indigenous peoples from around the world. The most familiar use of clay in the modern day is in the form of facial masks however other applications such as body wraps, baths and poultices are also common. The term relating to the use of clay is Pelotherapy which is defined as the application of peliods, such as mud, peat, or clay to all parts of the body with the aim of healing or rejuvenation. Numerous types of clay are used depending on their different healing or beneficial qualities


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Using pyramids to heal

November 13th 2006 00:29
Pyramids are said to have healing powers

For as long as we have been aware of them; people have been baffled by the great Pyramids at Giza, including scientists. The amazing aspect of the great pyramids is their incredible preciseness and accuracy in a time where resources were limited and conditions where harsh and unforgiving. They are by far the biggest construction ever made by man and the mind boggles as to the how they were actually created. The mathematical precision is such that the dimensions and proportions are positioned in the exact centre of the earths land mass and they are exactly one trillionth of the weight of the Earth. It is obvious that these enigmatic edifices are not accidental but clearly planned and calculated to the millimeter.

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