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Heal Dehydrated Skin - Part 3 (LINK)

March 6th 2008 08:31
The final installment of "Heal Dehydrated Skin"........Most cosmetic products on the market don’t actually help the skin repair damage to the barrier or acid mantle. They act as emollients, reducing water loss from the skin by covering it with a protective layer. Effectively they keep water in the skin. Common emollient ingredients include butters, waxes and oils as well as products such as petroleum and lanolin. While emollients are helping to reduce the problem, they aren’t actually remedying the underlying cause. The other issue with some emollient ingredients is that they may actually cause more problems.


Petroleum products such as mineral oil sit on the surface of the skin, stopping the skin from breathing and have the potential to block pores. By contrast natural waxes and oils allow the skin to breath. Some of the heavier waxes or butters may still block pores however natural carrier and essential oils are unlikely to have this effect.
When it comes to ingredients that achieve this end, our natural pantry is rich in ingredients that can help restore skin hydration rather than just masking the problem. Many natural carrier oils such as Rosehip, Sweet Almond, Tamanu, Marula, Jojoba and Evening Primrose Oil are readily absorbed by the skin. They have the ability to nourish the skin, provide an effective barrier to water loss and reduce TEWL.

Oils such as Rosehip also contain essential fatty acids (EFAs) that promote the repair of the cellular membrane, allowing skin cells to retain more water. Ironically if the skin cells are deficient in EFAs, it can cause the sebaceous glands to become overactive, producing more oil. With an EFA deficiency, the skin will often be oily through the T-zone and dry across the cheeks. As long as the appropriate natural carrier oils are used, they can have a balancing effect, reducing both oily and dry skin conditions. Ideal choices for skin that is both oily and dry include Rosehip and Sweet Almond.


Many carrier oils such Marula, Rosehip and Boabab also contain essential skin vitamins such as A, E and C that promote healthy cellular function. As antioxidants, the vitamins also help slow skin ageing.

What you do on the “inside” also has an impact in skin hydration. Reducing factors that have a diuretic effect such as alcohol and coffee will increase cellular hydration. The other key issue is ensuring adequate good fats in the diet. Good fats such as essential fatty acids (EFA’s) ensure the cell membrane remains flexible. This allows the cell to excrete toxins and cellular waste products and hold onto nutrients and water. EFAs also help to keep skin flexible and hydrated and promoting skin healing. Deep Sea fish are among the best source of EFAs including tuna, salmon, anchovies and sardines. Other good sources of EFA’s include avocado, nuts & seeds, flaxoil and Evening Primrose Oil.

Ananda Mahony ND is a naturopath and holistic skin specialist. Her practice focuses on the treatment of skin conditions. Ananda also owns Vitale Natural Skin & Body Care, a natural & organic skin care store in Paddington. www.vitalenatural.com.au

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